I was buying onions at a market stall in north London yesterday when a man next to me holding a pineapple said, 'I met you 16 years ago today on the terrace of the Hotel Nacional in Havana. I asked you if you minded my cigar smoke' 1/3
I couldn't remember the meeting but I was at the Nacional that week. So I thought, what a great writer I could be if I could access all those layers of silt embalming all those hundreds of forgotten meetings. 3/3
He said, 'I can date it so precisely as I was getting married the next day and was nervous which is why I was smoking the cigar. It is our wedding anniversary tomorrow and that is why I have bought a pineapple.' 2/3
I was the only one just now outside John Lennon’s childhood home. The National Trust keeps his bedroom light on every year on the anniversary of his death. Imagine.
Klaxon. My travel memoir - life on the road from my 20s to my 60s - out this March. I think of it as Nubility to Invisibility. (Stand by for vol 2: Immobility)
I'm writing a travel memoir, to be published next year - about a woman's life on the road from nubility (my twenties) to invisibility (60). Handily, that means I have dressed today, for World Book Day, as myself.
When writer Isabella Bird (1831-1904) married, she gave up travelling. Someone commiserated about a cancelled trip east, and she said, ‘New Guinea is not the sort of place you could take a man’. Morning girls!
A reporter asked Nobel laureate
#VSNaipaul
why he had never written an autobiography 'Oh, you can rearrange the facts in non-fiction, so there's no point', he said. 'Whereas fiction never lies.'
RIP Shackleton, 101 years today. Little-known modernist. 'During that . . . march of 36 hours over the unnamed mountains of South Georgia, it seemed to me often that we were four, not three.' Adapted in The Waste Land.
This year marks the glorious centenary of
#ApsleyCherryGarrard
's The Worst Journey in the World. Thinking of the book and its dignified wisdom in this gruesomely unheroic age. 'You will march your winter journeys, so long as all you want is a penguin's egg.'
Hurrah! Paperback publication day of my 'Mud and Stars: Travels in Russia with Pushkin and other Geniuses of the Golden Age'.
'Superlative' – Sunday Times; 'Fascinating' – Guardian; 'Side-splittingly funny' – TLS; 'Nicely packaged' - Amazon
At the starting gate for my authorised Jan Morris biog: 30 of her 50 titles installed in my office so far, orange-stickered with pub date, here ranging from 1957 to posthumous 2021. Yikes
6/14. Heroines of 'Glowing Still'. Martha Gellhorn. Writing the fighting for six decades. 'I do not want to be good. I want to be hell on wheels, or dead.' Go girls.
Born this day 1886: Apsley Cherry-Garrard. 'It is "the response of the spirit" which is interesting rather than what they did or failed to do: except in a superficial sense they never failed. That is how I see it and I knew them pretty well.'
1931–2022
Celebrating and remembering the life-force that was Dervla Murphy, who has died at home at the age of 90. Thank you for your friendship, your principled wisdom, your questing conversation and your unflinching books.
A shelfie keeping you up to date with my Jan Morris volumes for the authorised biography-in-progress, each stickered by date. Up to 51 books (middle shelf) detailing, as Morris put it in 1990, 'travels from coast to coast in search of generalisations'.
Best thing about writing a travel memoir: the dreams, after rereading notebooks. Last night I dreamt I woke again in my Antarctic tent. I used to leave the flap open.
🥳🎉Paperback publication day: a memoir of life on the road. Epigraph by Martha Gellhorn: 'I do not wish to be good. I wish to be hell on wheels, or dead'. Still here! 🎇
Anyone read my book 'Terra Incognita: Travels in Antarctica' (1996)? This is Seismic Man and me in Scotland today. Where did the years go, and so quickly?
This just fell out of a book. Me at the South Pole 3 decades ago. Note noonday shadow! Shackleton wrote, 'We all have our own White South' - all well and good, but where did the years go?
Think it's cold? I took this at minus 40, in August, when the sun rises in the polar south. 'You wait', wrote Thomas Pynchon. 'Everyone has an Antarctic.'
When Jan Morris congratulated Harold Evans on becoming Times editor in 1981, HE scrawled a note back, 'Dear Jan, What fun! Feel like climbing Everest again? Love, Harry'. I have just found this note folded into a book of Morris'!
Just found this picture from years ago of Emperor penguins next to my tent after I put a Pingu toy on the ice. Wild excitement! See the ones on the left calling the others over?
Like you, woke to the exciting news that scientists have discovered there are 22 species of penguin, not 18 as previously thought. Here I am interviewing some emperors on the topic a few years ago (this is not photoshopped, btw!) PS I tired of this encounter before they did
A hundred years ago today Captain Scott and four companions reached the South Pole. He wrote in his diary that they had shown what Englishmen can achieve. Imagine what Scott would have made of the moral invertebrates in charge on this centenary.
As former Dr Who Tom Baker is trending I wish to repeat a story Baker told me when we were in a limo on a Waterstones signing tour in December 1997. He said, 'The last time I sat signing books a woman in the queue mistook me for Shirley Williams'.
A shelfie keeping you up to date with my Jan Morris volumes for the authorised biography-in-progress, each stickered by date. Up to 46 volumes and they have had to turn the shelf corner.
Justin Hayward tucked his lateral flow test into the neck of his guitar to display its cantilever before singing Nights in White Satin just now. Nothing does it for me like an old rocker
@TheLondonLib
But how could I have married him: he was just celebrating his sixteenth wedding anniversary and his wife was waiting for pineapple a la mode, she was not locked in the attic
Morning! From my hut during the brief August light cycle in the Antarctic when the long polar night ends. Mt Erebus, and my gathered neighbours waiting for me to wake up.
Celebrating
#NationalSiblingsDay2023
, for siblings with a disabled brother or sister. Check out the wonderful charity Sibs if you need support, or know someone who does. Matt and me in 1963. You love them more, not less.
@Sibs_uk
One of my heroines, Freya Stark (1893-1993), once wrote to her editor in London, John Murray, asking him to send a tin bath out to her in the interior of Yemen: more than a girl can expect of her publisher today, I think.
So J comes down every morning of our trip looking like she's been delivered by a florist. I look - without fail - like I've slept in a skip. Grinds a girl down.
Thinking today of Martha Gellhorn, writing the fighting for six decades. Although each conflict was different, her message remained the same: ‘There is neither victory nor defeat; there is only catastrophe.’
Revisiting all my top Dervla stories. In Cameroon with Egbert, she encounters a curious observer. ‘Are you a man or a woman?’, he asks. In response, she lifts her jumper to show her tits.
Now a Financial Times Book of the Year. 'Despite the dangers and misogyny endured on journeys from Antarctica to Zanzibar, she admits her main fear is the John Lewis curtain department.'
Lavatory of the day. This was mine once, in the Antarctic close to the Mackay glacier. Plumbed in to the Southern Ocean. Very fine. But once a seal came up - hot fishy breath!
I spent six months in Chile in the early 90s and met many people of my age whose fathers had been pushed out of choppers over the Pacific in and after 1973. Thinking of them today.
Watched the game in 1966 with my dad and little brother; mum was working. I had just learned to tell the time so at the 90-min whistle I stood blocking the set as dad had promised to take us to the swings.
Showed these visiting emperors a soft penguin toy I had in the tent. Sensation. As you see, some called to others to come and look. They are still talking about it 25 years on.
Impressed with my new travel hammock (£7.99). But, lying in it just now in West Papua, I read in Pax Britannica that in 1897 Hemmings in Bristol offered in its catalogue for travellers to India a whole flatpack hotel inc veranda and chapel for £1000.
Well
@Scyberboy
I would normally, as a counter-Nazi, tell you to fuck off. But as a counter-little men using Nazi vocabulary to feel significant and make their tiny cocks hard, I can’t be bothered.
Reckless plans: 3 decades ago I decided to write the first travel book about the Antarctic. In the years it took to get there, I sought proxies. This heavenly pub in Annascaul, County Kerry, was founded by Scott and Shackleton's man Tom Crean, all time greatest polarman.
95 years ago today Shackleton rowed ashore on Elephant Island to rescue the crew he had left behind after ice crushed 'Endurance'. 'Are you all well?' Greatest story ever told? Perhaps.
Heroines of Glowing Still 14/14. Rachel Carson, fugleman for the apocalypse to come, published Silent Spring in 1962. She revealed that pesticides including bioaccumulative endocrine disrupter dieldrin were killing the planet.
Loved the Evelyn Hofer show at
@TPGallery
. This one appears in Jan Morris' 1964 book 'Spain' - all later editions tragically did not include Hofer's wonderful images.
On Bruce Chatwin, a writer I admire. One lover, Miranda Rothschild, said, ‘He’s out to seduce everybody, it doesn’t matter if you are male, female, an ocelot or a tea cosy.’ I thought about it. But I think not.
Hugely enjoying
@DrMatthewSweet
's
#modernism
@BBCRadio4
. Cherry-Garrard wrote 'The Worst Journey in the World' in the magical 1922 - a modernist seeking in the Antarctic Sweet's 'cleaner, brighter zone'.
'The black-and-red notebooks, I was beginning to learn as I excavated my travelling past, were reliable witnesses to the woman I was then. But a cross-examining barrister might ask, "Do you still trust her?"’
'If you march your winter journeys you will have your reward, so long as all you want is a penguin's egg.'
Apsley Cherry-Garrard, Worst Journey, centenary quotation 20/20