thinking about all the things i've accomplished during quarantine: forgetting how to read, increasing my screen time by 100 percent, losing my short time memory, finding new uses for pillsbury biscuits, no longer being able to form complicated thoughts,
The Smith is easily the most evil restaurant in NYC. Not only is it a basic brunch spot, the owner’s parents are, respectively, a Sackler and the lawyer who defended Epstein.
you live in new york, in a rat-infested apartment that has one window looking at a brick wall and costs $1,700 a month, what do you mean you would never fall for a scam
conde nast is proof that, if you try hard enough, you can always make things worse and aspire to fuck up a situation up more than anyone imagined possible
ok so in Lyon, ‘the culinary capital of the world,’ they have a Boston-themed bar… what if the French get really into Boston like they have Brooklyn… start calling things “tres Boston”
i wrote an obituary for a jean-georges cook named jesus roman melendez. he didn’t have a big name, or get recognition. he was the sort of laborer, his coworkers say, that restaurants like jg depend on - even if they don't get the credit.
trend reporting is psychotic... writers will be like "new york's downtown elite are getting into gnostic mysticism, and it's reverberating through america's culture" and none of the reporters can find more than three people. meanwhile jeff in missouri is playing cornhole
The world that these people imagine & want to create is not better for anyone, it's not more connected... it is lonelier, more isolated, & entrenches inequalities in our country. It is for and creates adult babies who don't know how to talk to other people
i still think about this article on a struggling dumpling shop owner often. we can't talk about what’s wrong with the restaurant industry without talking about what we're willing pay for food, & how little this country values food & the work to make it.
Spoke w/ some people about working in restaurants while sick or injured: cooking after contracting salmonella, going in the day after getting hit by a car, waiting tables with a torn tendon that they couldn't take time to properly heal. It's not COVID
a Brit trademarking the word "taqueria" and sending a cease and desist letter to prevent a Mexican immigrant from using it --- a fitting way to honor their late queen. Marvelous
I don't think people should be held responsible for the sins of their (god awful) parents, or grandparents, that is, lol, unless you decide you can profit from their sins and launder their money into your creative/business pursuits
mission chinese was supposed to be a better restaurant. but sometimes toxicity isn't about just one person, but a system that enables individual bad behavior. i talked to 26 employees about how mission failed to live up to its purported ideals.
one of my questions for writers asking "why don't writers talk to regular restaurant workers more?" is have you ever tried to talk to restaurant workers? people are afraid to go on the record about the most benign shit. and they don't necessarily have the time or want to.
i wrote an obituary for anh-tuyet nguyen. she wasn’t a chef, founder of a restaurant group, a server or a porter. but she was a mentor and mother figure to many in nyc’s vietnamese restaurants — and one of the most important people to that blossoming scene
people who work in restaurants should've been getting hazard pay this whole time, in reality they've been asked to enforce government rules while making less money
layoffs, furloughs, and pay cuts are particularly upsetting when there are people at the very top who are not making bigger sacrifices that they can very much afford to take. that is all.
only someone who has never been to broadway junction, a complex where 3 subway lines intersect, could be fooled into believing a single churro vendor could create "congestion"
Mayor on NYPD arrest of churro seller in subways: "The facts are she was there multiple times and was told multiple times that’s not a place you can be and it’s against the law and it’s creating congestion and she shouldn’t have been there.”
@MarciaBelsky
the very worst penny pinchers i've dealt with are people who inherited enormous generational wealth (which isn't to say all trust funders, but definitely all of the ones who barely work lol)
try to avoid yang discourse but his tweet about street vendors is so dumb. they are also people trying to survive, who have by & large been excluded from relief & left out of that conversation. anyway here’s what street vendors contribute to the city
The actual human beings who make up the hospitality industry simply will not be able to survive this disaster, and it is unconscionable that the people in charge, so far, seem willing to simply let them become casualties of the crisis.
The bullshit about regular people “jumping in line” for the vaccine really contains all the worst of covid discourse — definitive proclamations, focus on individuals, aggressive judgements about people you know nothing about. You just assume the worst?
“And Chris Morocco [the director of the Test Kitchen] directly told me he didn’t like how quickly I moved up, so he wanted to make sure this person would never be allowed to develop recipes.” As she puts it, management didn’t want another “Sohla problem.”
Some owners have complained workers aren't coming back because of unemployment & stimulus. Others see this for what it is: "The issue isn’t that people are being paid more for unemployment. The issue is that they’re not being paid enough for their jobs.”
went to gino's in bay ridge last night, it was packed... there was the table of 12~ where 1 lady pulled out a giant wad of cash to pay for everyone. the dad watching hockey on his iphone the whole meal. guys wearing tight sweaters & big gold chains. hottest restaurant in nyc rn
@jeremypgordon
he knew how good he was, and he didn't want to deny young people the chance to see the best player in baseball crush it, so he altruistically extended his reign through the use of steroids. and he gets punished for doing the right thing?
i wrote about one of the biggest issues plaguing New York restaurants right now... the rise of Fake Caesars. As my friend Midtown Jim asked me, "what's wrong with people?"
i talked to a bunch of people — cooks, bartenders, an undocumented food runner, managers, street vendors — about fatigue, anxiety, isolation, and how this year has affected their mental health
[to the tune of "born in the u.s.a"]
got in a little hometown jam
so they put a rifle in my hand
sent me off to go and kill the 30-50 feral hogs
that run into my yard
while my small kids play
Here is our obituary for Anne Saxelby, who died this weekend at the age of 40. She was a kind person, hugely influential in her world, & a generous advocate for both the people whose products she sold and her peers in Essex Street and beyond
Imagining Parts Unknown but hosted by Adrian Chiles, who goes to different cities in every episode only to discover that the food can't compete with Britain's
wrote this last year about my dad, who yesterday accidentally texted the family group chat, instead of his sober friends group chat, about how grateful he is to be sober and alive
just got a pr email in which the rep referred to a chef's "sober lifestyle" as part of her "embracing the wellness trend." i did not know addiction is so out of style!
Soon the wine avant-garde will be people who make extremely conventional wine: “We were inspired by our parents stories of playing Slap the Bag with boxes of Franzia. We wanted to bring back that old-school millennial experience.”
This year, I've gone out in Carroll Gardens more than ever before and I'm ready to call it... Carroll Gardens is New York's next hot nightlife neighborhood. Just this past Friday, I saw guys hanging outside the Union Market. There were teens playing tag. People were even at a bar
A whole ecosystem of services designed to keep you at home -- you get your food delivered so you can keep streaming your mediocre tv show, god forbid you interact with anyone
the atlantic says the sound of gentrification is silence but that's changing... the sound of gentrification is the ear-splitting, annoying ass racket of pickleball games
For most of the last 11 yrs, Dan Rossi (the Hot Dog King) has slept outside the Met to protect "his spot." The city, he insists, wants him out, for someone else's benefit. “When they shut me down a few weeks ago, everything was exposed — everything.”
bon appétit editor-at-large andrew knowlton's restaurant is on bon appétit's 50 best new restaurants, a list he was intimately involved with until this year
The fact that 50 percent of my coworkers have left New York over the last two years? Many citing low pay (for frequently outrageous hours)? That's lowbrow despicable.
I feel like everyone trying to make Midtown a thing in 2022 isn't setting their goals high enough... if you weren't all cowards you'd go all in the Financial District as NYC's next great nightlife neighborhood
what no one has talked about *lately* with this espresso martini thing is that, as with everything terrible that has happened in nyc in recent years, the williamsburg australians were doing it first
I think this, by
@little_jimmee
, speaks to the frustration & anger many in the food industry feel. The vaccine rollout being the latest ex. of how (as
@ericriveracooks
said) they're called essential workers but disregarded & not treated like ones
i am taking some zoomers who are visiting nyc for the first time to greenpoint... i want to show them where millenial brooklyn culture is still thriving before it disappears
I wrote this in 2019; my dad has since relapsed, once almost to an end. I don’t wish having an addict for a parent on another, but in some ways I feel blessed to know so intimately what it means to love & be loved by someone who is broken & has hurt you.
In extremely tight news, my profile of Courtney Kennedy, who left fine dining to cook for cancer patients, is in this year's Best American Food Writing. Thx to my editor
@asytsma
,
@emmaalpern
for copyediting,
@kingscrun
for photos, & Courtney for her time