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Neha

@nehavermani

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Historian of Mughal food practices, material culture, senses, emotions, and objects. @Britishacademy_ Fellow @unishefhistory

Sheffield, England
Joined June 2009
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
This haleem recipe from a 17th C. Mughal cookbook features turnip, carrot, and spinach with the regular fare of meat, wheat, and spices. I have never had a haleem rendition like this in all my years of haleem eating!
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
Cruel irony, Natasha, Taliya from Natalie to him, remains locked up much against her father’s last wishes.
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
My first encounter with snake skin nestled between manuscript folios. Is it a regular occurrence?
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@nehavermani
Neha
8 months
What did the early modern Rajputs do with all the hunted animals? They pickled some game! Here is a recipe for wild boar and deer pickle from an eighteenth century Rajasthani cookbook.
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
Now that it is official on the British Academy’s portal,happy to announce i will be joining University of Sheffield’s department of history as Newton Postdoctoral fellow from 2022-2024 and will be expanding on my Mughal food history research. Here is to more on adab and ilm! 🍻
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@nehavermani
Neha
8 months
Currently devouring this sumptuous volume @s_lamberthurley @clarachambara along with the other contributors have put together featuring essays that engage with memories of South Asian food including some rare family recipes!
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@nehavermani
Neha
8 months
Remembering BN Goswami, who passed way this morning, by re-visiting his essay on cats in South Asian art.
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
Settling the “there is nothing called vegetarian biryani” debate. Here is a recipe for (zer)biryan-i panir from a late Mughal cookbook. Maybe there is no such thing as vegan biryani.
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Very excited to announce that Cfp for our Decoding Recipes: Histories of Knowledge and Practice is live. If recipes of any kind are your jam, come workshop with us @ClaireBurridge3 @unishefhistory
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Mughal rendition of a Dutch pancake maker. Notice the Mughal style sky, doorway and lion on the porcelain vessel.
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@nehavermani
Neha
11 months
What a stunning essay on the constantly shifting course of the river Indus, colonial attempts at containing it within fixed map lines, the relationship of fisherfolk communities with the now disappeared Indus dariya and it’s scared geography.
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@nehavermani
Neha
1 year
Currently tripping over and completely obsessed with this 17th C kalamkari rumal (handkerchief) from Deccan, India, depicting a feasting scene.
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
Mughal and Safavid cookbooks contain recipes for a dish called the shashranga (lit. six-coloured), a medley of spices, vegetables or fruits, and eggs. Have worked with these texts for years but it just struck me that what we eat as shakshuka is definitely related to it. Late 🤯!
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@nehavermani
Neha
6 months
Roots of nimona , a present-day North Indian winter classic curry made with green peas (matar) or fresh green gram (choliya), can be traced back to the Mughal period. Here is a recipe for nimona pulav from a 17th century Mughal cookbook.
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
19th century culinary manual from Rampur giving me pickle options that I would never try: Achar kela (banana), Achar kishmish wa munaqai (small and big rasins), Achar gul gulab (rose). Also, there is a recipe for pickled cucumbers!
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
Sotheby’s is auctioning Mughal era spectacles.This piece, a Mughal era frame with lenses set in 1890s, has been creating buzz on the internet, mainly courtesy the self style “White Mughal” posting pictures of himself wearing these glasses. 🤮 Ignoring him, a🧵 on Mughal eye wear
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@nehavermani
Neha
1 year
Street Food à la Mughal
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
To all those who have been part of selection committees: why do you really need letters of reference?proposals, statements, writing samples reflective of one’s work are not enough? Are we so unaware of the toxic gate keeping LoRs promote? LoRs are triggering and how!
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@nehavermani
Neha
6 months
Sprawling bazaar of nineteenth century Faizabad, Ayodhya district, bustling with fruit and food vendors, flower sellers, horsemen, hookah smokers, betel nut crackers, sugarcane bundles, turban tiers, and more. A shahrashob (the city of beauty/lament of a city) moment.
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
South Asia, South-East Asia, African history specialists, if your work engages with recipes of any kind - food, medicine, pigments, textiles etc. - consider sending abstracts for our Decoding recipes workshop @unishefhistory ⬇️ @BritishAcademy_ @LeverhulmeTrust @ClaireBurridge3
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@nehavermani
Neha
8 months
Recipe for shrew(s)bury cake from a Persian cookbook, a translation of an unnamed English cookbook, composed in 1801 at Muzaffarpur. The recipe noted here uses zira, cumin/ caraway seeds. My initial thought was to consider it a Hindustani innovation but 🧵
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Golden hour writing set up
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
I am tired of Wajid Ali Shah introduced alu 🥔 in biryani tales. Here goes, 1. No documentary evidence 2. 🥔 an expensive commodity till end of 18th century only features in cookbooks of the English colonial administrators. (1/2)
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@nehavermani
Neha
6 months
My author copy of The Dining with the Sultans survived the customs scrutiny and is finally here ! It is an editted collection of essays published to accompany an exhibition by the same title at @LACMA
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@nehavermani
Neha
7 months
A stunning langar scene occupies the centre-right profile of this 19th c. painting that depicts Sikh leaders Bhai Vasti and Bukala Ram among others visiting Guru Nanak. Patron King Ranjit Singh and an English Lieutenant are nestled in the upper right corner.
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@nehavermani
Neha
1 year
Touring the ottoman imperial kitchen at the Topkapi palace and feeling extremely jealous that we do not have such a rich range of remains for the Mughal kitchens.
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
Tomorrow I will be in an archive after two long years. Rampur, please be nice.
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@nehavermani
Neha
8 months
Hi @ThePrintIndia , thanks for paraphrasing my published journal article (linked below) and my talk for @karwaanheritage . Please put a little more effort and get my last name right. It is Vermani and not Verma as mentioned 4 times in your piece.
@ThePrintIndia
ThePrintIndia
8 months
Historian Neha Vermani spoke about the role of food in Aurangzeb's court. Mughals were also selective vegetarians, she says. It was a Sufi method of 'soul purification' Tina Das @dastina2191 reports in #ThePrintAroundTown
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
🧵 Mughal Epicureans: Naan-i Baqir Khani, popularly Baqirkhani in North India, derives it’s name form the Mughal noble, Baqir Najm Sani, active during the reigns of Jahangir and Shah Jahan. It simply implies a type of bread prepared in the kitchen establishment of Baqir Khan.
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
In today’s Mughal food recipes that have probably disappeared from our culinary repertoire- nan shirmal panir dar, nan kadu and nan kela. I have never had or seen these, have you?
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Robert Skelton’s essay on this Mughal painting - Humayun’s garden party - taught me the value of art history. I never met the man but a major section of my work would not have existed without the mentorship provided by his scholarship. Thank you and rest in peace.
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Always assumed kothmir as exclusively marathi word for coriander. Surprised to find as alternative of kashniz (coriander) in a 19 C text Persian text composed in Delhi.
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Currently obsessed with this 18th C satirical depiction of a priestly communal meal in a fly infested arena.
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@nehavermani
Neha
1 year
15-16th century spa treatments for beating the Indian summer featuring regular suspects (rosewater, camphor, sandal) and nets of pearls for eyes and chest.
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Food & medicine recipes as sources of history writing has been jam. Postdoc has expanded that ambit to include all sorts of other recipes - perfumes, dyes etc. Planning to organise a workshop on recipes and knowledge production. DM if you work on similar issues.
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Either gift me musk or re-create this recipe for Rumi (ref. Ottoman region) Baklava recorded in a 17th c. Mughal text
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
Fellow pineapple pizza haters, what do you think about meaty pineapple pulao?
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Mughal recipe for kebab variations featuring tori (sponge gourd), kadu (pumpkin), eggplant, and cucumber with mince meat. Personally, not vibing with it!
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
Recipes for Bughra, a pasta like meat dish with central Asian antecedents, are recorded in 15th to late 19th South Asian culinary texts. Since then it has completely disappeared from the scene. Have always wondered why certain dishes have disappeared SA culinary repertoire.
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
My research might not translate into a job, but it has translated into a soap for @Litrahb ’s bagh-e-hind exhibition.
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@nehavermani
Neha
1 year
Green pumpkins , brinjals, gourds, moringa galore in this 14th century manuscript.
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Early modern Persianate recipes for staying awake: Catch and kill an owl, at the moment of killing it observe which of its eyes is open, extract it, wrap it in a cloth and carry it with you- you will not get sleepy. The eye of a monkey does the same trick.
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
What are the best ways of coping with anxiety in a new city? My transition to life in Sheffield hasn’t been smooth and I find myself crying through out the day. Would like to keep my mind occupied but nothing is helping.
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
3. Subsequent spread of 🥔 is related to the efforts of the British in promoting its cultivation and use because of its high calorific value. It became a staple of the non elite classes. 🥔 in biryani is the non elite claiming and making biryani, an elite dish, their own!
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@nehavermani
Neha
10 months
I absolutely hate 🍌but working on a manuscript that keeps on sending 🍌 recipes my way. Sharing the most repulsive one here: cut 🍌 finely and flavour it with ginger, onions, lime juice, salt, turmeric, cumin, fenugreek and asafoetida. Boil it well to prepare the yakhni. 🤢
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
Kebab, Rice, Melons, and Pomegranates - the Mughal staples, seen here with their makers and servers.
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Been craving keema pav so for weeks. Finally mustered some enthusiasm to knead, punch, roll, and bake. Tomorrow’s task: keema
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
Mughal food service providers doing their things even as people in the street flex daggers and swords or when the royal family decides to picnic in the middle of a river.
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
From pulavs to chemical explosives - many lives of Nargis (narcissus) in the Mughal recipe texts. This one is from a chapter on fireworks that calls for saltpeter, sulfur, charcoal, and powdered iron.
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Super slow paced Sheffield is home for two years now. Please hit me up with your best recommendations.
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@nehavermani
Neha
1 year
Finished reading this book on all things wondrous over what was a particularly soul crushing weekend. Can’t thank it enough for keeping me sane.
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@nehavermani
Neha
11 months
If inks and/or medieval recipes are your thing, register to attend a super fun online Abbasid-era ink-making demonstration by @joumajnouna . This event is a part of The Decoding Recipes Workshop, co-organised by me and @ClaireBurridge3 . @unishefhistory
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Culinary roots, routes, and twists: Recipe for curry using red chilies as recorded in a late 18th C. Persian translation of an English cookbook. The term curry and the commodity red chilies do not feature in Persian cookbooks commissioned by the Mughal elite.
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Got no company in Sheffield for Diwali drinking and feasting, decided to pickle onions instead.
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
Aurangzeb & food connoisseurship-The “puritan”emperor bequeathed evoticative names like sudharas & rasnavilas to different breeds of mangoes, demanded services of chef famous for biryan(i) preparation & kitchens of high-ranking nobles at his court innovated recipes such as these:
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
🤓 frequently feature in Mughal paintings, just need a keen 👁 to spot them! Most popular painting with 👓
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
Reminiscing about sweet watermelons of Kabul, first Mughal emperor, Babur was reduced to tears - a far cry from the fruit’s unpalatable past. Mughal 🍉 🧵
@GastroHistory
Gastronomic History
3 years
ICYMI: Here’s What the Watermelon Was Up to Before It Tasted Good. Wild watermelons weren’t sweet, but they were incredibly useful. #foodhistory #watermelon #Citrullus
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
The horror of copyright restrictions on Mughal miniatures has triggered massive anxiety. Compiling a list of open access resources that can be used for journal articles, book chapters etc. Feel free to contribute for a lot of ECRs have to navigate this BS 🧵 @Yael_Rice @ShailkaM
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@nehavermani
Neha
4 years
So @scroll_in did the bare minimum but did not forget to mansplain and patronise me in the process. Also, sent me a wiki link, really?
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Chicken Zir-Biryani à la Mughal emperor Muhammad Shah.
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Mughal cookbooks comfort me on days that feel extremely difficult. Because my head is in a pickle, here is a recipe for a sticky date pickle.
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
The South Asian 🍋 🌶 evil eye tradition. Early modern medical texts describe lemon’s scent as a powerful air purifying agent. Chilies, introduced in South Asia towards the beginning of the 18th century, are praised for their heat inducing properties that cause purging (1/2)
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@nehavermani
Neha
11 months
Spending the day thinking and writing about this detailed labor/ child-delivery scene at the Mughal harem. For now, fixated on the women, in the middle of the panel, preparing medicines.
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
I do not wish to tell an all white interview panel about commitment to decolonisation, inclusion, and diversity. Why do academic selection committees not do better by telling the candidates about their efforts to promote these “values”. Also, I am particularly bitter 1/2
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@nehavermani
Neha
1 year
Writing some more about Mughal food practices and in love with this exquisite coffee cup with metal compartment in the centre for ambergris to flavour the coffee.
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@nehavermani
Neha
9 months
There is no falling from grace in cuisines. They are an ever-evolving phenomenon. Recipes signpost changing tastes and accommodation of emerging forms of knowledge and produce. Public history shouldn’t be about sensationalism, personal opinions are a different matter.
@tishasaroyan
Dr. Ruchika Sharma
9 months
This samosa recipe from 15th century Malwa always makes me drool. Involves mountain goat meat and some fascinating spices, especially for the aroma. Too bad we don't make our samosas like this anymore. What a fall from grace, from juicy meat to soggy aloo! This recipe book has 10
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
🐕 in Mughalscape
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
According to Badauni, Shah Fathullah Shirazi, the Ishraqi philosopher, stationed at Bijapuri court before moving to Akbar’s court died because he couldn’t resist eating harisa even as he was battling typhoid! Mughal history is all about people dying for food ♥️
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Indulge me a little as I lay out broad contours of my research.
@BaytAlFann
Bayt Al Fann
2 years
Historian of early modern Mughal South Asia, @nehavermani research focuses on food practices & cultures of consumption. She is particularly interested in engaging with material history, & the history of senses & emotions… Jahangir Entertains Shah Abbas
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Excited and a little nervous to share my research on food consumption as an olfactory experience @IMEMSDurham tomorrow, courtesy @amandaeherbert Zoom link
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Smell of caramelising onions in ghee is the best smell ever. Yakhni pulav underway! Recipe: a bit of everything I have come across in Mughal and contemporary cookbooks, because I am bad at following instructions.
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
Jamun, the much underrated summer fruit, is of one of my favourite. During the course of my research I came across a variety of yellow coloured jamun, called the gulab-jamun, that was grown in 19th century Lucknow. As the name suggests they smelt like roses 🧵
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@nehavermani
Neha
1 year
Some early modern medical advice ft. fresh coriander - "if coriander plant is gently pulled out with its roots and is suspended to the thigh of a woman in labour, she will give birth at once".
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
Every mango season articles sprout up about Sher Shah Suri’s christening a type of mangoes, Chausa, to celebrate the sweetness of his victory over Humayun in the battle field of Chausa. Evocative, as food should be. However, I am yet to locate any evidence for this 🧵
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Not feeling this karela ka murabba, courtesy 17th c. Mughal culinary tome.
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Not Mughal but 17th-century spread of sultan of Aceh, North Sumatra: "The sufra was unfurled and the dishes were brought in, taam qabuli, birinj, shorba, harisya, bughra and khuska; various dampukht and kebab, and types of halwas; jugs of sharbat with yazdi rosewater; (f)paluda"
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
@UdaySRana Uncle with no formal or informal education giving gyan about other people’s academic qualifications 👏
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
Woke bros who’d like to snigger at this post and wonder about the “academic-ness” of my work, just shut your eyes and scroll past the post 🙏
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
Cataloging of this shallow vessel as “Shah Jahan’s wine cup” has forever annoyed me. Shah Jahan, as evidence suggests, did not drink alcohol & made a grand gesture of having wine cups broken on assuming the throne. Also,the shape doesn’t justify its use as drinking vessel.
@CHH_India
Centre for Historic Houses of India
3 years
Happy #HeritageTreasures Day! Today we are sharing the interests of one of our interns who specialises in the food history of India. Pictured below is their favourite museum object - the wine cup of Shah Jahan, made in 1657, out of white nephrite jade.
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
Some obscure ones
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
Been obsessed with starch in Mughal archives & have found recipes that use it for halwa,clothes and paper. The last two use water rice that required *gently chewing the rice gruel, pouring it in a clean container,boiling it again with water* to produce starch!
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@nehavermani
Neha
1 year
In February, I had the pleasure of being on a curatorial tour of this splendid exhibition by @KheraDipti at the Smithsonian. Finally, got my copy of the gorgeous exhibition catalog that I can’t wait to devour.
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
A 16th century Sanskrit text refers to a device, upalochanagolaka, literally round glasses which were substitutes of natural eyes (upa-lochana). Jesuit Rudolf is recorded to have worn 🤓 during his visit to Akbar’s court.
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
Mirza Shahpur, the Governor of Kashmir during Jahangir’s reign took pride in consuming the ‘lotus’ rice variety and pan leaves procured from Burhanpur. The point being, Mughals ate well and lived a good life, not always dreamt about warfare, blood, and gore.
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
Playing around with my manuscripts, came across recipes with amrud, this one is for a syrup. Till the 18th century, amrud in Persian and Hindustani stood for pear, and not guava as we know it today. Linking my PhD things I do at #BeforeFarmtoTable project @FolgerLibrary 🧵
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Been thinking about food consumption as olfactory sensory experience. And thanks to @amandaeherbert ,I will be talking about it on 2 Nov @IMEMSDurham
@amandaeherbert
Amanda E. Herbert
2 years
One week to go! Dr. @nehavermani (Sheffield) will present her work @IMEMSDurham on “The Fragrant and the Fetid: Smell and Food Practices in Mughal South Asia” Weds 2 Nov 5:30pm. All are welcome, in person or online.
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@nehavermani
Neha
4 years
@DalrympleWill So then the act of Dalits burning manusmriti must also really disturb @DalrympleWill because hey, burning stuff is wrong!
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
SA culinary map has been dominated by flour and rice, has absorbed new world produce and cooking technology. What does the act of forgetting or abandoning a entire dish format imply? How does one understand this absence ?
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
A lot of post midnight meetings later, the website of our collaborative project is here! Click away if food and history are your jam! P.S. Do try Hannah Wolly’s early modern marmalade recipes if jam is your jam
@FolgerResearch
Folger Research
3 years
THE BFT WEBSITE IS LIVE! Take a look at this curated collection of all of the amazing #BeforeFarmtoTable work that our team has done over the past four years.
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
Never imagined I would be reading an early modern Persian treatise on urine, much less that it would describe pistachio coloured urine. All I wanted to do was write about food and not excretion!
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@nehavermani
Neha
1 year
Browsing through the 18th c. Persian manuscript of Bhagvatpuran produced during the reign of the 13th Mughal Emperor Muhammad Shah and lamenting the absence of Mughals in the new NCERT school textbooks.
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@nehavermani
Neha
2 years
Writing on salt and friendships at the Mughal court. Very tempted to the title it Salt BAE.
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@nehavermani
Neha
3 years
“Tarkari (vegetable preparation) is called Qaliya and Du-piyaza in Muslamani”- early modern Rajput culinary manual. It reproduces sections from Mughal cookbooks. The transmissions,culinary and linguistic,that accompanied the circulation of these manuals are so exciting!
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