This haleem recipe from a 17th C. Mughal cookbook features turnip, carrot, and spinach with the regular fare of meat, wheat, and spices. I have never had a haleem rendition like this in all my years of haleem eating!
What did the early modern Rajputs do with all the hunted animals? They pickled some game! Here is a recipe for wild boar and deer pickle from an eighteenth century Rajasthani cookbook.
Now that it is official on the British Academy’s portal,happy to announce i will be joining University of Sheffield’s department of history as Newton Postdoctoral fellow from 2022-2024 and will be expanding on my Mughal food history research. Here is to more on adab and ilm! 🍻
Currently devouring this sumptuous volume
@s_lamberthurley
@clarachambara
along with the other contributors have put together featuring essays that engage with memories of South Asian food including some rare family recipes!
Settling the “there is nothing called vegetarian biryani” debate. Here is a recipe for (zer)biryan-i panir from a late Mughal cookbook. Maybe there is no such thing as vegan biryani.
Very excited to announce that Cfp for our Decoding Recipes: Histories of Knowledge and Practice is live. If recipes of any kind are your jam, come workshop with us
@ClaireBurridge3
@unishefhistory
What a stunning essay on the constantly shifting course of the river Indus, colonial attempts at containing it within fixed map lines, the relationship of fisherfolk communities with the now disappeared Indus dariya and it’s scared geography.
Mughal and Safavid cookbooks contain recipes for a dish called the shashranga (lit. six-coloured), a medley of spices, vegetables or fruits, and eggs. Have worked with these texts for years but it just struck me that what we eat as shakshuka is definitely related to it. Late 🤯!
Roots of nimona , a present-day North Indian winter classic curry made with green peas (matar) or fresh green gram (choliya), can be traced back to the Mughal period. Here is a recipe for nimona pulav from a 17th century Mughal cookbook.
19th century culinary manual from Rampur giving me pickle options that I would never try: Achar kela (banana), Achar kishmish wa munaqai (small and big rasins), Achar gul gulab (rose). Also, there is a recipe for pickled cucumbers!
Sotheby’s is auctioning Mughal era spectacles.This piece, a Mughal era frame with lenses set in 1890s, has been creating buzz on the internet, mainly courtesy the self style “White Mughal” posting pictures of himself wearing these glasses. 🤮 Ignoring him, a🧵 on Mughal eye wear
To all those who have been part of selection committees: why do you really need letters of reference?proposals, statements, writing samples reflective of one’s work are not enough? Are we so unaware of the toxic gate keeping LoRs promote? LoRs are triggering and how!
Sprawling bazaar of nineteenth century Faizabad, Ayodhya district, bustling with fruit and food vendors, flower sellers, horsemen, hookah smokers, betel nut crackers, sugarcane bundles, turban tiers, and more. A shahrashob (the city of beauty/lament of a city) moment.
Recipe for shrew(s)bury cake from a Persian cookbook, a translation of an unnamed English cookbook, composed in 1801 at Muzaffarpur. The recipe noted here uses zira, cumin/ caraway seeds. My initial thought was to consider it a Hindustani innovation but 🧵
I am tired of Wajid Ali Shah introduced alu 🥔 in biryani tales. Here goes, 1. No documentary evidence 2. 🥔 an expensive commodity till end of 18th century only features in cookbooks of the English colonial administrators. (1/2)
My author copy of The Dining with the Sultans survived the customs scrutiny and is finally here ! It is an editted collection of essays published to accompany an exhibition by the same title at
@LACMA
A stunning langar scene occupies the centre-right profile of this 19th c. painting that depicts Sikh leaders Bhai Vasti and Bukala Ram among others visiting Guru Nanak. Patron King Ranjit Singh and an English Lieutenant are nestled in the upper right corner.
Touring the ottoman imperial kitchen at the Topkapi palace and feeling extremely jealous that we do not have such a rich range of remains for the Mughal kitchens.
Hi
@ThePrintIndia
, thanks for paraphrasing my published journal article (linked below) and my talk for
@karwaanheritage
. Please put a little more effort and get my last name right. It is Vermani and not Verma as mentioned 4 times in your piece.
Historian Neha Vermani spoke about the role of food in Aurangzeb's court. Mughals were also selective vegetarians, she says. It was a Sufi method of 'soul purification'
Tina Das
@dastina2191
reports in
#ThePrintAroundTown
🧵 Mughal Epicureans: Naan-i Baqir Khani, popularly Baqirkhani in North India, derives it’s name form the Mughal noble, Baqir Najm Sani, active during the reigns of Jahangir and Shah Jahan. It simply implies a type of bread prepared in the kitchen establishment of Baqir Khan.
In today’s Mughal food recipes that have probably disappeared from our culinary repertoire- nan shirmal panir dar, nan kadu and nan kela. I have never had or seen these, have you?
Robert Skelton’s essay on this Mughal painting - Humayun’s garden party - taught me the value of art history. I never met the man but a major section of my work would not have existed without the mentorship provided by his scholarship. Thank you and rest in peace.
Always assumed kothmir as exclusively marathi word for coriander. Surprised to find as alternative of kashniz (coriander) in a 19 C text Persian text composed in Delhi.
15-16th century spa treatments for beating the Indian summer featuring regular suspects (rosewater, camphor, sandal) and nets of pearls for eyes and chest.
Nervous putting this out. Submitted this in 2019, hope it makes some sense. If you read it and have feedback please do share. If you don’t have access, I have put a copy on my academia page
Food & medicine recipes as sources of history writing has been jam. Postdoc has expanded that ambit to include all sorts of other recipes - perfumes, dyes etc. Planning to organise a workshop on recipes and knowledge production. DM if you work on similar issues.
Mughal recipe for kebab variations featuring tori (sponge gourd), kadu (pumpkin), eggplant, and cucumber with mince meat. Personally, not vibing with it!
Recipes for Bughra, a pasta like meat dish with central Asian antecedents, are recorded in 15th to late 19th South Asian culinary texts. Since then it has completely disappeared from the scene. Have always wondered why certain dishes have disappeared SA culinary repertoire.
Early modern Persianate recipes for staying awake:
Catch and kill an owl, at the moment of
killing it observe which of its eyes is open, extract it, wrap it in a cloth and carry it with you- you will not get sleepy. The eye of a monkey does the same trick.
What are the best ways of coping with anxiety in a new city? My transition to life in Sheffield hasn’t been smooth and I find myself crying through out the day. Would like to keep my mind occupied but nothing is helping.
3. Subsequent spread of 🥔 is related to the efforts of the British in promoting its cultivation and use because of its high calorific value. It became a staple of the non elite classes. 🥔 in biryani is the non elite claiming and making biryani, an elite dish, their own!
I absolutely hate 🍌but working on a manuscript that keeps on sending 🍌 recipes my way. Sharing the most repulsive one here: cut 🍌 finely and flavour it with ginger, onions, lime juice, salt, turmeric, cumin, fenugreek and asafoetida. Boil it well to prepare the yakhni. 🤢
Mughal food service providers doing their things even as people in the street flex daggers and swords or when the royal family decides to picnic in the middle of a river.
From pulavs to chemical explosives - many lives of Nargis (narcissus) in the Mughal recipe texts.
This one is from a chapter on fireworks that calls for saltpeter, sulfur, charcoal, and powdered iron.
If inks and/or medieval recipes are your thing, register to attend a super fun online Abbasid-era ink-making demonstration by
@joumajnouna
. This event is a part of The Decoding Recipes Workshop, co-organised by me and
@ClaireBurridge3
.
@unishefhistory
Culinary roots, routes, and twists: Recipe for curry using red chilies as recorded in a late 18th C. Persian translation of an English cookbook. The term curry and the commodity red chilies do not feature in Persian cookbooks commissioned by the Mughal elite.
Aurangzeb & food connoisseurship-The “puritan”emperor bequeathed evoticative names like sudharas & rasnavilas to different breeds of mangoes, demanded services of chef famous for biryan(i) preparation & kitchens of high-ranking nobles at his court innovated recipes such as these:
Reminiscing about sweet watermelons of Kabul, first Mughal emperor, Babur was reduced to tears - a far cry from the fruit’s unpalatable past. Mughal 🍉 🧵
ICYMI: Here’s What the Watermelon Was Up to Before It Tasted Good. Wild watermelons weren’t sweet, but they were incredibly useful.
#foodhistory
#watermelon
#Citrullus
The horror of copyright restrictions on Mughal miniatures has triggered massive anxiety. Compiling a list of open access resources that can be used for journal articles, book chapters etc. Feel free to contribute for a lot of ECRs have to navigate this BS 🧵
@Yael_Rice
@ShailkaM
The South Asian 🍋 🌶 evil eye tradition. Early modern medical texts describe lemon’s scent as a powerful air purifying agent. Chilies, introduced in South Asia towards the beginning of the 18th century, are praised for their heat inducing properties that cause purging (1/2)
Spending the day thinking and writing about this detailed labor/ child-delivery scene at the Mughal harem. For now, fixated on the women, in the middle of the panel, preparing medicines.
I do not wish to tell an all white interview panel about commitment to decolonisation, inclusion, and diversity. Why do academic selection committees not do better by telling the candidates about their efforts to promote these “values”. Also, I am particularly bitter 1/2
Writing some more about Mughal food practices and in love with this exquisite coffee cup with metal compartment in the centre for ambergris to flavour the coffee.
There is no falling from grace in cuisines. They are an ever-evolving phenomenon. Recipes signpost changing tastes and accommodation of emerging forms of knowledge and produce. Public history shouldn’t be about sensationalism, personal opinions are a different matter.
This samosa recipe from 15th century Malwa always makes me drool. Involves mountain goat meat and some fascinating spices, especially for the aroma. Too bad we don't make our samosas like this anymore. What a fall from grace, from juicy meat to soggy aloo! This recipe book has 10
According to Badauni, Shah Fathullah Shirazi, the Ishraqi philosopher, stationed at Bijapuri court before moving to Akbar’s court died because he couldn’t resist eating harisa even as he was battling typhoid! Mughal history is all about people dying for food ♥️
Historian of early modern Mughal South Asia,
@nehavermani
research focuses on food practices & cultures of consumption. She is particularly interested in engaging with material history, & the history of senses & emotions…
Jahangir Entertains Shah Abbas
Excited and a little nervous to share my research on food consumption as an olfactory experience
@IMEMSDurham
tomorrow, courtesy
@amandaeherbert
Zoom link
Smell of caramelising onions in ghee is the best smell ever. Yakhni pulav underway! Recipe: a bit of everything I have come across in Mughal and contemporary cookbooks, because I am bad at following instructions.
Jamun, the much underrated summer fruit, is of one of my favourite. During the course of my research I came across a variety of yellow coloured jamun, called the gulab-jamun, that was grown in 19th century Lucknow. As the name suggests they smelt like roses 🧵
Some early modern medical advice ft. fresh coriander - "if coriander plant is gently pulled out with its roots and is suspended to the thigh of a woman in labour, she will give birth at once".
Every mango season articles sprout up about Sher Shah Suri’s christening a type of mangoes, Chausa, to celebrate the sweetness of his victory over Humayun in the battle field of Chausa. Evocative, as food should be. However, I am yet to locate any evidence for this 🧵
Not Mughal but 17th-century spread of sultan of Aceh, North Sumatra: "The sufra was unfurled and the dishes were brought in, taam qabuli, birinj, shorba, harisya, bughra and khuska; various dampukht and kebab, and types of halwas; jugs of sharbat with yazdi rosewater; (f)paluda"
Cataloging of this shallow vessel as “Shah Jahan’s wine cup” has forever annoyed me. Shah Jahan, as evidence suggests, did not drink alcohol & made a grand gesture of having wine cups broken on assuming the throne. Also,the shape doesn’t justify its use as drinking vessel.
Happy
#HeritageTreasures
Day!
Today we are sharing the interests of one of our interns who specialises in the food history of India.
Pictured below is their favourite museum object - the wine cup of Shah Jahan, made in 1657, out of white nephrite jade.
Been obsessed with starch in Mughal archives & have found recipes that use it for halwa,clothes and paper. The last two use water rice that required *gently chewing the rice gruel, pouring it in a clean container,boiling it again with water* to produce starch!
In February, I had the pleasure of being on a curatorial tour of this splendid exhibition by
@KheraDipti
at the Smithsonian. Finally, got my copy of the gorgeous exhibition catalog that I can’t wait to devour.
A 16th century Sanskrit text refers to a device, upalochanagolaka, literally round glasses which were substitutes of natural eyes (upa-lochana). Jesuit Rudolf is recorded to have worn 🤓 during his visit to Akbar’s court.
Mirza Shahpur, the Governor of Kashmir during Jahangir’s reign took pride in consuming the ‘lotus’ rice variety and pan leaves procured from Burhanpur. The point being, Mughals ate well and lived a good life, not always dreamt about warfare, blood, and gore.
Playing around with my manuscripts, came across recipes with amrud, this one is for a syrup. Till the 18th century, amrud in Persian and Hindustani stood for pear, and not guava as we know it today. Linking my PhD things I do at
#BeforeFarmtoTable
project
@FolgerLibrary
🧵
One week to go! Dr.
@nehavermani
(Sheffield) will present her work
@IMEMSDurham
on “The Fragrant and the Fetid: Smell and Food Practices in Mughal South Asia” Weds 2 Nov 5:30pm. All are welcome, in person or online.
SA culinary map has been dominated by flour and rice, has absorbed new world produce and cooking technology. What does the act of forgetting or abandoning a entire dish format imply? How does one understand this absence ?
A lot of post midnight meetings later, the website of our collaborative project is here! Click away if food and history are your jam! P.S. Do try Hannah Wolly’s early modern marmalade recipes if jam is your jam
THE BFT WEBSITE IS LIVE! Take a look at this curated collection of all of the amazing
#BeforeFarmtoTable
work that our team has done over the past four years.
Never imagined I would be reading an early modern Persian treatise on urine, much less that it would describe pistachio coloured urine. All I wanted to do was write about food and not excretion!
Browsing through the 18th c. Persian manuscript of Bhagvatpuran produced during the reign of the 13th Mughal Emperor Muhammad Shah and lamenting the absence of Mughals in the new NCERT school textbooks.
“Tarkari (vegetable preparation) is called Qaliya and Du-piyaza in Muslamani”- early modern Rajput culinary manual. It reproduces sections from Mughal cookbooks. The transmissions,culinary and linguistic,that accompanied the circulation of these manuals are so exciting!