Author of Riding in the Zone Rouge, about a bike race across the battlefields in 1919. Now researching WW1 in Italy for another book to be published by Helion.
Iโve stumbled across a video Iโd forgotten Iโd shot (similar to the one Iโve shared before, but slightly different). Itโs of a WW1 Italian 149mm Ansaldo howitzer, sited at 3300m on a ridge above the Adamello glacier. Itโs been up there for 107 years.
Extraordinary scenes on the Italian/Slovenian border near Monfalcone, where brush fires are sweeping across the old WW1 battlefields. Slovenian media are reporting that WW1 UXOs can be heard exploding in the fires, and bomb-disposal teams have been sent to the area.
#WW1
Affectionately known as The Hippopotamus, this Italian 15cm WW1 howitzer sits at 11,000ft, above the Adamello glacier. It took 200 men 76 days to get it there
#GrandeGuerra
#WW1
I was once asked to look up the military records of a distant relative who โnever came back from the Great Warโ, leaving a wife and 3 kids. I discovered he never came back because he deserted after the armistice and absconded with a Belgian barmaid. He was never heard from again.
Went to see All Quiet on the Western Front today. What an incredible film. Genuinely brilliant, utterly gut-wrenching, and everything I hoped โ1917โ would be, but wasnโt. I feel completely exhausted by it. A must-see, even if you have no interest in WW1.
This will never not blow my mind. An Italian WW1 barrack on a ledge on Croda Rossa at 9300ft (2835m). Thereโs a 1000ft (300m) sheer drop from there, so sleep-walking is inadvisable. But OMG, the viewโฆ
#GrandeGuerra
๐ดโโ ๏ธ Oropa, where Il Pirata wrote his name in the history of the
#GirodItalia
โก๏ธ
๐ดโโ ๏ธ Oropa, dove Il Pirata ha scritto il suo nome nella storia del
#GirodItalia
โก๏ธ
OTD three years ago I climbed up to see a WW1 149mm Ansaldo howitzer, abandoned on a ridge above the Adamello glacier at 11,000ft. It still blows my mind.
#FWW
#GrandeGuerra
I think itโs wonderful how many young women are engaging with my thoughtful analyses of the 11th Isonzo. Even though Staycee canโt afford proper clothes, and appears to be suffering from anaphylaxis, sheโs still loving my take on Capelloโs troop dispositions. Bless.
Battlefield Botany. Itโs a thing. In Italy during WW1 around 180 non-native plant species were inadvertently introduced into Sรผdtirol. 64 species survived, and a dozen or so hybridised with indigenous species. The photos are not necessarily invasive species (I know nothing)โฆ
The craziest place in WW1:
Hill 383 on the middle Isonzo. For 737 days (June 1915 to May 1917) the Italian 2nd Army, II Corps, attempted to wrest this important hill from the Austro-Hungarian 1st Mountain Brigade. The same units fought each other almost continuously for 737 days!
Karl (16) and Leopold (17) Koller were privates in the Schรผtzen Volunteer Regiment during WW1. In the battle of Spera (Valsugana, 24.5.16) Karl was seriously wounded, and Leopold was killed, in hand-to-hand combat with experienced Italian troops. Look at themโฆthey were just kids
This Italian WW1 position at Passo Paradiso (Tonale sector) may have been safe from attack and weather, but they were still living in a puddle at 8400ft. Itโs bloody freezing in there, even in July.
#GrandeGuerra
#ErsterWeltkrieg
Not sure if this will work terribly well on Twitter, but itโs a short video I took while cycling one-handed through the Galleria Cannoniera del Monte Brestovec, a WW1 Italian artillery gallery on the Carso. The noise of eight 149mm guns firing in here must of been horrendous.
Goodness, weโve been joined by quite a few new followers. Welcome to WW1 as youโve never seen it before! Here youโll mostly find stuff about WW1 on the Italian front, a bit of motorbike/bicycle stuff, and an occasional photo of my dog. Questions and dialogue very much encouraged.
More than 20 unused WW1 Italian 305mm gas shells were recovered from the River Soฤa/Isonzo in 1999. Each one still contained 44kg of phosgene gas. Too risky to move, a specialist Slovenian team made them safe on the river bank. Genuinely scary stuff.
#GrandeGuerra
#Isonzo
#FWW
In September 1917 Italian troops dug a 150m rock tunnel through no-manโs land to Forcella V and broke into a cave occupied by the Austrians. For several days they fought back and forth through these tunnels and caves with machine guns, grenades and flamethrowers. Unimaginable.
An amazing photograph taken by an Italian soldier at Forcella V in 1917, showing enemy soldiers 150m away on Q3153. It was not unknown for opposing troops to photograph each other, swap greetings, or trade insults.
For those wondering about the Kras/Carso, itโs a much-neglected battlefield where >200,000 Italians and Austro-Hungarians were killed in fighting between May 1915 and October 1917.
The WW1 front line on the Tofana was completely mad. The Italians occupied a ledge beneath an overhang, with the Austrians 100m above them. The Austrians lowered men on ropes to lob grenades at the Italians, who were tunnelling beneath them
#GrandeGuerra
#WW1
#dolomiti
Iโm delighted to announce that Helion & Co will be publishing High Wire, my book about WW1 on the Italian Front. It will be something very different, both in terms of content and presentation, and publication is scheduled for the Spring of 2025. Youโre going to love it!
Another soldier from WW1 has been recovered from the ice, this time from Vedretta di Lares glacier in the Adamello sector. It will be interesting to see if they can ID him.
#GuerraBianca
In these tunnels during WW1 men fought each other with machine guns, clubs, hand grenades, and flamethrowers. They were fighting for control of Forcella V, a key position at 10,000ft on Monte Marmolada, in September 1917. Imagine a grenade exploding in here, or a flamethrowerโฆ
Every year I become less and less inclined to wear a poppy. I still donate to the RBL, but the poppy becomes meaningless if itโs used merely to display the wearerโs patriotic and nationalistic credentials. I hate this shit.
Recently the bodies of 30 Italian WW1 soldiers were discovered at Vertojba near Gorizia. They were buried in their 3rd line trench by Austrian soldiers, probably after Caporetto. After the war they were supposed to have been moved to the Oslavia ossuary, but mysteriously werenโt.
In April 1916 a rope of three Alpini soldiers climbed to Forcella Alta (red X) where the lead climber came face-to-face with an Austrian sentry. Both screamed and involuntarily jumped back, which caused all 3 Alpini to fall 50m onto a snowy ledge (orange X). They all survived.
One final piece of high-altitude WW1 military madnessโฆthe Austrians and Italians occupied positions on top of the Kรถenigspitze (3851m) either side of the summit, accessed by tunnels dug through the ice. The Austrian WW1 barrack up there has recently reappeared from the ice.
#WW1
I know I go on about it, but the Eisstadt still blows my mind. Dug by the Austrians inside the Marmolada glacier in 1917, it had barracks for 175 men, a hospital, kitchens, mess facilities, officers club, storage for munitions/fuel, telephone exchange, generators, and toilets. ๐คฏ
My home-made atlas of the WW1 Italian Front is back from the printers and looking mighty fine (maybe not in this shaky lo-res vid). It probably wonโt look so fine once Iโve scrawled annotations all over it, butโฆ
Roads to nowhereโฆbuilt during WW1 to supply troops at the front lines, there are still many in the mountains that go from a long-vanished depot to long-abandoned front lines.
The up side of global warming: the rapidly-melting Marmolada glacier in the Dolomites will give up some fascinating WW1 artefacts, and maybe a few of the men who disappeared there 107 years ago. There are at least 30 Italian soldiers up there somewhereโฆ
More WW1 trenches, these ones on the Carso near Monfalcone, and Sei Busi. The sheer quantity of these remains is mind-boggling.
#GrandeGuerra
#Carso
#Isonso
That you can see an almost untouched WW1 battlefield on Google maps (SW of Korita na Krasu) is quite extraordinary. These trenches date from the 11th Isonzo (August 1917). The circular enclosures are abandoned cultivated dolines. A very unworldly landscape.
#Isonzo
Interesting WW1 via ferrata fact: the Austrian access to their positions on Tofane di Rozes (Dolomites) involved a flight of more than 270 iron pegs hammered into near vertical rock. Apparently some new arrivals in this sector had to be โencouragedโ up at the point of a bayonet.
Italian military engineering ๐ During WW1 they built terrifying bridges, roofed a 5km mountain road, and dug some incredible rock tunnels. And the Italian for sappers is zappatori, which I like.
The 48th Bersaglieri battalion was ordered to attack along this valley in Nov 1915, through a metre of snow, against intact wire & machine guns, in temps of -24ยฐC. They fought in the open for 12 hrs, & lost 510 men, inc 318 from frostbite, with 100% officer casualties. Appalling.
Two more โghost roadsโ that were heavily used in WW1 on the Italian Front. The old Passo Fedaia used to supply the Italian front line near Lago di Fedaia, and the old Stelvio road used by the Italian troops in the Ortler sector.
The 12 battles of the Isonzo can be very confusing, so Iโve renamed them to make them easier to understand (it was a long train journey, I was bored). Youโre welcome.
Reading about the disparity in firepower is one thing, seeing it graphically displayed on a map is far more shocking (Italians in red, Austrians in blue). And still Capello couldnโt break through.
A seriously hard day in the Dolomites, but so much WW1 stuff to explore. Snowshoeing is great, but 8 hours, 5500 calories, and 31,000 steps has left me in pieces. More of the same tomorrow ๐
Another forgotten WW1 battlefield on the Italian FrontโฆRattendorfer Alm in the Carnic alps. The Scotti-Kapelle was originally built by Austrian soldiers, and thereโs still a lot of rusty war stuff still up there.
Italian trenches and Austrian shell holes at Monte Fior on the Altopiano dei Sette Comuni. They date from the Austrian Strafexpedition offensive of May/June 1916.
Am preparing to pitch my new book to publishers. This is pretty much the sum total of modern English language books about WW1 in Italy, so thereโs definitely room for one more.
Good news everyone, Iโve planned your summer holiday for you next yearโฆwalking the Carnic Alps WW1 front line. Stunning scenery, fascinating history, beautiful botany, solitude and head-space. Walk around 9 miles a day, sleep at mountain rifugios, and eat hearty mountain foodโฆ
Some advice to any of my followers who might go to watch the Tour de France: Donโt run, donโt touch, donโt flap your flag in front of riders, donโt shout in ridersโ faces, donโt light flares, your flag-on-a-stick is still a stick, donโt get within 2m of riders, donโt be a dick!
My first time over the Vrลกiฤ pass, the vital Austro-Hungarian supply route to the Bovec basin built by Russian PoWs. Said Hi to Kugy on my way up. Thereโs still a lot of crumbling WW1 infrastructure up there.
The Italian attack route up to Q3153 on the Marmolada (2000ft drop if you slip), equipped by the 7th Alpini in late October 1917. Despite being ordered back to the Piave they stayed and captured Q3153, just to prove they could. Then 24hrs later abandoned it and withdrew south.
Can I just say that although some parts of Twitter are a stinking midden of hate and stupidity, I find my little bubble of cyclists, motorcyclists, climbers, and history enthusiasts to be a constant source of interest, enjoyment and reassurance. Thank you all ๐
Sometimes itโs hard to get a sense of scale on the Dolomite WW1 battlefields. The red arrow in photo 1 points to the Cavernette, the entrance to which is in photo 2. This was HQ of Italian operations on Croda Rossa, at the base of a huge tower of crumbling limestoneโฆ
Standing by an Austro-Hungarian position and trenches in the Carnic Alps above the Oberstansersee at around 9000ft. In winter, sentry duty only lasted 15 minutes because of the extreme cold
#GrandeGuerra
#WW1
Some of the Italian WW1 stuff in Val Dogna, Montasio sector (north-east corner of the Italian front). This was a quiet sector, so thereโs still an incredible amount to look at up here.
Looking at drone photos of Italian positions on Monte Paterno. Thereโs a WW1 shelter dug into the rock, the remains of wooden ladders and bridges, and what looks to be a stack of cylindrical objects, partially covered by a rock-fall. Artillery shells? Magnums of Chianti? Curious.
The Italian WW1 military village at Filone dei Mot, near Monte Scorluzzo, south-west of the Passo dello Stelvio. And a smaller position nearby. That was a very good day on the bike.
Trenches on Lagazuoi at 8000ft. Iโm at a complete loss for words about the WW1 stuff up here. How? Why? Itโs absolutely beyond comprehension
#LaGrandeGuerra
#WW1
Iโve done tunnels, Iโve done roads, Iโve done cable cars. But I havenโt done bridges. So, Bridges of the Italian Front:
One of two suspension bridges built by Italian engineers on the Castellaccio-Lagoscuro ridge during WW1, and its modern replacement in the same placeโฆ
"A howling wilderness of stones as sharp as knives." The Carso battlefield, on the lower Isonzo, was truly hellish, and the armies were locked in battle here for 28 months. Imagine the effect of an HE round landing amongst this. At least 200,000 men died here.
#WW1
#GrandeGuerra
One of my particular interests is WW1 battlefield tourism between the wars. On the Italian front it was a strange and often macabre experience, undertaken for a variety of reasons, with rusty weapons and human bones scattered around even in the 1930s when these photos were taken.
More from Sabotino. The ridge line is riddled with caverns, galleries and tunnels built by the Austrians and then repurposed by the Italians after they captured it in August 1916 (6th Isonzo). The reconstructions give a good idea of how difficult it was to supply troops up here.
An under-appreciated aspect of fighting WW1 in the Dolomitesโฆthe rock is really horrible to climb on, very crumbly and unstable. Ledges are covered in loose stones, holds are fragile, and rock-falls are common. Thatโs on top of all the shooting, grenades, artillery, etc.
Currently writing about the Honvรฉd, Hungarian troops of the Austro-Hungarian army, who had an enviable reputation as solid, reliable fighters. The 20th Honvรฉd Division fought continuously on the Carso, suffering 83% casualties from Aug-Oct 1916 before being relieved. Staggering.
So thatโs that. Iโve ridden my bike along the Italian/Austro-Hungarian Front of WW1, from the Adriatic to the Stelvio, and it has been a sensational experience. Thank you all for your interest and input, it has been a great help and encouragement. More to follow in due course...
Wooden footbridges spanning crevasses in the Marmolada glacier. During WW1 Austrian engineers dug around 6 miles (10km) of tunnels through the moving ice to protect troops from shelling, gunfire, the weather, and avalanches. Hundreds of men lived for weeks in barracks down hereโฆ
Hiked up the Col di Lana (known as the Mountain of Blood) today. The Italians made 90 attempts to dislodge the Austrians, and eventually exploded a mine under the summit that blasted 10,000 tons of rock off the mountain and left a huge crater
#GrandeGuerra
#WW1
#Dolomites
Me: Doctor, I think Iโve probably cracked a rib falling off my bike.
Doctor: Have you cracked a rib before?
Me: Yes.
Doctor: Does this feel the same?
Me: Yes.
Doctor: Youโve probably cracked a rib. Happy Christmas.
The doctor, btw, is my eldest son ๐
For those of us accustomed to the CWGC way of doing things, the Austro-Hungarian cemeteries on the Carso can seem bleak and unloved. More than 6000 men were buried here (Gorjansko). Most of the name plates have been stolen, and the mass graves feel devastating
#GrandeGuerra
So much hatred and anger around this weekend, so much stupidity. So Iโm sharing a photo of my Happy Place, the place I go in my head when it all gets a bit much. Itโs Val Genova in the Italian Alps, and Iโll be there for the rest of the day.
#OTD
in 1919 a mad sporting event took place on the WW1 battlefields of the Western Front. The Circuit des Champs de Bataille bike race went across Flanders, the Somme, the Marne, Champagne, Verdun and the Vosges, in appalling weather and on shattered roads.
#cycling
#buymybook
OTD in 1916 the Battle of Verdun began, a 303 day struggle that cost the lives of more than 300,000 men. This is the astonishing memorial to the French 69th Division on the small but blood-soaked hill of Mort Homme
#WW1
#Verdun
#MortHomme
As someone who was the victim of an unprovoked assault by a driver, I find this kind of hate-mongering really dangerous.
@RowanPelling
should reflect on her part in making our roads a more toxic and frightening place. But she wonโt, because culture wars = income for her.
Up at 3000m today, exploring Italian WW1 positions on Cima Presena (1st pic looking east to the Presanella, 3rd pic Italian front line positions). Still a lot of rusty wire and WW1 junk up hereโฆ
Been exploring the Ledro sector of the Italian front today. These are various positions around the Valle di Concei, north-east of Lake Garda - Bezzecca and Rocca di Trat. This is a sector where little happened after initial battles in the autumn of 1915. Itโs very remote.
Weโve had WW1 ladders, now we have Top Italian Front Ledges:
Monte Mesolina (2642m, Marmolada sector)
Cengia Lipella (2725m, Tofane di Rozes).
Cengia Torrioni (2835m, Croda Rossa).
Cengia Castellaccio (3020m, Presena sector).
Many soldiers fell from these ledges, a few survivedโฆ
Itโs the 101st anniversary of the ceasefire on the Italian Front today. For the Italians it turned out to be a โmutilated victoryโ, for the Austro-Hungarians it turned out to be the collapse of their empire.
#GrandeGuerra
#FWW
#WW1
The Costabella sector of WW1 in Italy is astonishing. We hiked and climbed along the ridge from the Austrian positions to the Italian ones, visiting dozens of tunnels, trenches and gun emplacements. There is an amazing amount of remains still up there.
#WW1
#GrandeGuerra
I was going to do a Top 10 Ladders of the Italian Front listicle, but thatโs too ridiculous even by my standards. They were quite important, though, so here are four of my favourites
#FavouriteLadders
Back in the Dolomites for a trip up Monte Piana (2324m, 7675ft). Beneath the snow are WW1 caverns and many kilometres of tunnels and trenches dug into solid rock. Temps dropped to -30C (-22F) in winter, and itโs said that more men froze to death than were killed by the enemy.
The old Bosniak cemetery on the Melette massif, where 208 men were buried. The 2nd Bosniak regiment (the most decorated regiment in the Austro-Hungarian army) fought with incredible bravery here against the Sassari Brigade (the most highly decorated unit in the Italian army).
In July 1915 a handful of Austro-Hungarian troops, led by Sepp Innerkofler, climbed Monte Paterno in the dark to dislodge the Italian Alpini troops on the summit. Innerkofler and an Alpino called Pietro de Luca fought hand-to-hand at 9000ft and Innerkofler was hurled to his death
Look what I found on Google Earth! A WW1 hut has appeared out of the ice at 3400m (11,100ft) on the Trafoier Eiswand (Ortles sector). I suspect it could be the โOsservatorioโ on the Eiswand Schulter. If one of my Italian followers could go up and take a look, Iโd be grateful ๐
Iโve seen a few wartime photos of the Italian Front, but few convey the desolate bleakness and biting cold of high altitude fighting quite as well as these two (Cristallo group, Dolomites). Makes me shiver just looking at them.
Another day, another mad attack to write about. In Oct 1915 two battalions of Alpini attacked the Castelletto, uphill, in 4ft of snow, against machine guns. When they got to the wire men tried to use garden shears (no wire cutters available) to cut their way through. Many died.