Because I shoot food-shows all over the country, I come across some incredible traditional kitchens and bartan. This is in a village in the mountains of Tons Valley in Garhwal. I love the kanse ke bartan. And just look at those two-ended tools in the last pic! Ingenious.
Thread.
I lost my phone this morning.
iPhone 12 mini, which I’ve had for about 2 years.
I was going up the escalator at the Versova Metro station, when I reached into my bag and had my ‘waitaminute where the fuck is my phone???!’ moment.
Heart sank.
Did you know hospitals have tailors? The tailor at the hospital where my mother works has been working day & night stitching gowns & masks. A massive cheer for her too, please. There are so many who work behind the scenes to make what you see, possible, in this case - save lives.
A few days ago, someone who has recently moved to the city had tweeted here asking why we love Bombay despite the shit infra, high rents, all of it.
This is why.
I am tweeting this thread from my phone which I lost this morning, to find again, thanks to Mumbai & her people.
Rahul Kumar, Nilesh, Prakash, & the Rikshaw drivers of Versova Jetty - thank you for reinforcing my faith & belief in my Mumbai & the kindness of her people.
Nobody needed to have helped me today.
But they did.
Rahul Kumar, I hope he’s blessed with only the best for the rest of his life, I can’t thank you enough.
Folks at
@swiggy
I hope you’re taking note - pls DM me and I’ll send you Rahul’s number. He’s an honest good man and I really hope you do something nice for him.
🙌🏽
This is our little village of Kalap () in the Tons Valley of Uttarakhand. In 2013-14, we went without
#Electricity
for a continuous period of, hold your breath, 1.5 years.
Same country as you, Mumbai.
But omfg I dunno what I’ve done to deserve this - Rahul aaya!
On a bicycle, in his
@Swiggy
uniform, wearing a transparent plastic raincoat, somewhat drenched, Rahul Kumar my hero… he whipped my phone outta his pocket and I collapsed into a pile of relief + happiness + omg.
Pothi-Choru, literally ‘Packet-Rice’ is rice + cooked vegetables - wet & dry + condiments all wrapped up in a smoked/wilted banana leaf (so that it doesn’t tear) packed in a newspaper. Perfect bring-from-home travel food, this is seen often on trains as you travel across Kerala.
Nilesh was shouting after me!
‘Phone! Phone!’
So Prakash (bless him) had continued to call even after I walked away, and someone miraculously picked up on the other end juuuusssst before I boarded the ferry!
I raaaaaan back!
A guy called Rahul Kumar had picked up! He told us he was around DN Nagar Metro Station.
It was decided that Prakash would take me there as the person had picked up Prakash’s call on my phone so was more likely to pick up a call from the same number again.
Okay let’s go Pakya!
He was.
I didn’t recognise him.
But he recognised me. ‘Aap shayad mere Rikshaw mein aaye thhe Madam…’ one of the four Rikshaw drivers said.
He dived into his Rikshaw to see if my phone was there. It wasn’t.
Heart sank.
I’d come in a ‘sharing Rikshaw’ from Versova jetty to the Metro station.
I knew the driver would have taken a U-turn to the Rikshaw stand on the opposite side of the road, to ferry passengers back to the jetty.
I turned around and ran hoping hard that he’d still be there! 🤞🏽
Mind is blown. I read up a little to understand that Khow Suey is popular in the Memoni and Bohra communities of Pakistan, a result of trade links with Burma. This version of the Khow Suey is also called ‘Khausa’.
‘Should Madam go to the police station?’
The phone continued to ring but no one picked up.
Nilesh, whose Rikshaw I’d come in had let some 5-6 rides go by then.
He accompanied me to the other side of the road to see if the phone was lying on the road / steps…
It wasn’t.
But no one picked up!
I was there heart-sinking, cussing self for being careless, trying to figure what to do next - I came to, and this image is imprinted in my head…
6-7 Rikshaw drivers around me, all calling my phone by turns… discussing what must be done…
We called my phone from his number.
It wasn’t going through.
Heart sank more…
Phone kidhar rakha tha?’
‘Bag mein tha.’
By then the other drivers waiting at the stand joined in.
Ghar par toh nahin choda Madam?’
I knew I hadn’t cos I’d called Karim (my regular Rikshaw ride from home to Jetty) from the parking lot. 😭
One of the other drivers made me type my number into his phone & tried calling.
This time, the phone rang!
The tiniest glimmer of hope.
‘Agar gaya to doosri leddis lekar gayi hogi lekin hota nahin hai aisa…’
‘Kaun thhe doosre passenger’ someone asked the driver. It wasn’t any of his regulars…
‘Off aa raha hai matlab gaya…’
Prakash and I made our way speedily to this Dance Class near DN Nagar Metro Station & called my phone… Rahul picked up after three tries and told Prakash to come to Azad Nagar Metro Station -
‘Swiggy wala hai Madam, idhar se nikal gaya, bol raha hai udhar 10 minute mein aayega.’
I’m 1/2 Punjabi 1/2 Bengali, ancestral roots in Uttar Pradesh & Madhya Pradesh, born in Gujarat, went to 9 schools in 5 cities, currently live in Maharashtra & Uttarakhand. Married to a Tamil boy from Karnataka.
What’s my mother tongue?
Or that of my children?
Genuine question.
We went then to Azad Nagar Metro Station 🚉 and waited, ‘Aayega na, Madam…’ Prakash asked me.
I was blank.
Too much of a roller coaster Sunday morning by then, I hadn’t even had coffee cos I was headed to a Bohri breakfast feast at
@RiotOfFlavours
place when I lost my phone!
One of them, Prakash, took my number and tried calling my phone once more. ‘20 minute ho gaye hain, laga ke dekh lete hain.’
No one picked up. 😭
Nilesh came back with his number on a piece of paper.
I thanked the Drivers & told Nilesh I’ll get home and call him just in case…
By then I knew it wasn’t coming back.
I asked Nilesh to drop me back to the Jetty so I could go home & WhatsApp-call
@kalapian_
and figure what to go next. Ugh an FIR.
I was really so VERY SAD at that moment going back to the jetty. Almost in tears.
Nilesh dropped me.
He asked if I have an alternate number so he could call me just in case kuch pata chala. I don’t. I asked him to write his number on a piece of paper and give it to me.
By then the drivers at the Jetty had gathered around too…
And I walked away, to take the ferry back home.
There are some cats I stop to give scritches to at the Jetty everyday. I wondered if I should stop & say Hi, let the cats make me feel better, or just rush home & call
@kalapian_
…
Just then, ‘Madam Madam!! Maaadam!’
In my building, Dogs & Residents use the same lifts amicably.
Simple rule:
- If you’re in the lift first, dog’s handler checks if it’s okay with you before getting in.
- If dog is in the lift before you & you’re uncomfortable getting in, you take the next lift.
Easy.
Bombay Duck, ready to dive into hot oil.
My fave Bombil story is one where Bombil was the only guy to refuse to help Lord Ram build a bridge to Lanka. Ram, obvs pissed, flung him FAR. Bombil landed off the coast of Bombay, breaking all his bones in the process, hence soft bones!
Edit: A lot of you are asking for this detail that I missed out.
Rahul found my phone lying near Versova Metro Station. That I must have dropped it there while getting out of the Rikshaw/walking to the escalator seems to be the most logical conclusion to arrive at.
In Bhopal today.
Maa had planted the banana saplings from my wedding mandap in her garden and lo behold!
But wait for it, this gentle reminder: ‘The kola’r gach from your wedding have started giving fruit but you, you seem to be in no hurry.’
Maa! 🙈
Did you know that the word ‘lens’ comes from the word Lentil, yup, the same, our everyday ubiquitous Dal. “It was the curved shape of the lens that led to its name being borrowed, in the late 17th century, from the Latin name of the lentil plant, Lens culinaris.”
#HistorywaliEats
Hey hey guys!
@thebetterindia
just wrote about my husband
@iyer_higher
’s incredible work in the remote Tons Valley Of Uttarakhand and I’m just a proud wife putting this out here. :)
The best Bun Maska in Mumbai. IMHO.
At Yazdani Bakery, where they still bake some of their breads (I’ve seen the Ladi-pav for one) in a wood fire oven, yup!
Did you know though that the building the restaurant + bakery is housed in today used to be a Japanese Bank?
Sel Roti! This is a deep-fried bread from Nepal, also made in Sikkim, and I’m told, Darjeeling. I found it in Dehradun today & got to watch how it’s made. There’s a little pot inside the Kadhai that keeps the ring shape intact while frying. Lovely na?
This is the time of the year I begin to get very jealous of everyone living in Banaras / Lucknow / Dilli for this reason! Call this what you may - Mallaiyo, Makkhan Malai, Nimish, or Daulat Ki Chaat, it’s just the best thing in the whole wide world yes it is don’t @ me. 😻
Rajma pods with different colours of Rajma. It’s only after our harvest this year for that I realised that all these beautiful colours grow together in one Rajma patch, and then are sorted after harvest into homogenous piles.
Samir Bhai called me from Srinagar to wish me a Happy Diwali, like he does every year.
How are things, I asked.
It’s almost time for the saffron flowers to bloom in Pampore, he said.
Know what this is? I found this Dumb-waiter at a Raj era circuit house! A small lift that transported meals/tea/snacks/drinks to upper floors as sometimes desi service staff weren’t allowed into those areas. Other times these were for convenience in buildings that had no lifts.
2001 Pune was this, Nandu’s Parathas, T-Oaks, Burger King on East Street, Marzorin, Dorabjee’s, Biriyani at Blue Nile, this very Manchurian soup at Zaika (SB Road, also their desi espresso) and Zamus on the rare occasions we could afford it. 😻
This is Pippali/Long Pepper, indigenous to India like round Black Pepper. Both drove the spice trade drawing everyone from Romans to the Portuguese here. Pippali is hardly used now save in Ayurvedic medicine. It goes into Nihari & Thippili Rasam though. Know of any other recipes?
We are a country that
#loves
our
#cricket
. These beautiful temples are in Tons Valley, Garhwal, where I am currently, far away from any cricket ground or academy - but see the trophies the village has won in the local cricket tournaments displayed on the temple walls! Incredible.
These two potatoes 🥔 were named after two pahadi mushroom 🍄🟫🍄varieties - Gucchi & Chyun, ‘cause they popped up at our doorstep one fine winter morning (and decided they’re staying). 🤍🧿
Pahadi Bros - today's story
These are two of our dogs. Guchhi (in front) and Chyun (alias Chewie at the back).
These two are what you call a classical - bonded pair. They are siblings from the same mother and together since birth. G is the lead of the pair and C will follow
The Rumi Darwaza
The Rumi Darwaza of the Lucknow is one of the most impressive architecture in India.The Rumi Darwaza (Turkish Gate ) in Lucknow (UP) INDIA is an imposing gateway . If was constructed in the year 1784 by Nawab Asafu ud Daula .
Did you know:
Sheet (cold) + PHAL (fruit) = Sitaphal
(No, the fruit has nothing to do with Sita of the Ramayan. Indigenous to the Americas, it was brought to Asia by Spanish traders much after the Ramayana was authored. Infact its Portuguese & Bengali names are the same: ATA)
The Hakka people, from the Hakka region of China (which includes Shichuan made famous by the famous Indo-Chinese Shezwan sauce!) came to Kolkata in the late 19th century, driven by trade & religion, and settled in ‘Chinese paras’. It is here that Indo-Chinese cuisine was born.
This absolute stunner of a choolah with beautiful Kolam all over it. This is in Anegundi, across the river from Hampi.
Ignore my script at bottom right. :)
Doing a thread on some really cool kitchens & vessels from around India. This beauty is a kitchen that’s about 200 years old, in a house sitting pretty in a mango orchards in Ratnagiri district, along the Konkan coast. Note the missing tiles in the roof doubling up as a chimney.
Panjiri. Or how you say ‘Winter Is Coming’ in Punjabi. 😌❤️
Aaj ghar par bani.
Key ingredients: Gond or Kamarkas, Aata/Suji, Makhana & Dry fruits (in whatever quantity/mix you like), Boora or powdered sugar, & sabse important is the Desi Ghee is which everything is slow-roasted.
India has the largest percentage of vegetarians in the world, and one of the most important feedback we’ve gotten from them is that they are very particular about how their food is cooked, and how their food is handled.
A nest of red-ants, right before it was harvested to make chutney. This is in a remote village in
#Bastar
,
#Chattisgarh
where they believe that eating Red Ants keeps fevers away! Red ants are set on whoever is sick, because the bite is believed to reduce a fever
#WithHistorywali
Is my lunch Hindu or Muslim? Or is it Sikh? It it Kashmiri? It is Punjabi? Or is it Dogra? Is my lunch Upper Caste or Lower Caste? Is it Masculine or is it Feminine? Is my lunch offensive? Is my lunch secular? Is my lunch a protest?
The first passenger train in India ran between Bombay (Boree Bunder) and Thane (Tannah) on 16 April 1853. It was flagged off at 3:35pm. The 14-carriage train was hauled by three steam locomotives: Sahib, Sindh and Sultan.
#TodayInHistory
#WithHistorywali
Doing what I am happiest doing. Being a museum rat. :) The
@museumchd
has a Gandharan Sculpture gallery that was on my wishlist. Ngl I had to sit down and gather myself half-way through. Still swooning. Should I post a thread of some pieces?
This makes me so f@&
#ing
angry and mostly cos my brother, and many many many health workers like him, have to put their lives at stake and save these absolute dim-wits when they come to the Covid-ward and oh yes they do.
I’m the only non-doctor in my family & watching them at the forefront, fighting this unknown enemy, exposing themselves to danger every day is worrying & overwhelming but I couldn’t be prouder. No work-from-home here. This is Maa. She is 64, diabetic & a doctor. And she’s badass.
Not vessels but biodegradable packaging! Posts about a supermarket using banana leaf for packaging did rounds on social media a few months ago, but this how we have been doing things forEVER! Time we look inwards for inspiration. This is in a tribal village in Arakku Valley.
One of my favourites. This is in a tribal village in Arakku valley - border of Odisha & Andhra. Pic 1 has the kitchen inside the house, pic 2 is the chulah in the veranda of the house, pic 3 is from the veranda looking into the kitchen, and pic 4 is the lady of the house. 😍
Mom (65, diabetic for 37+ years, doctor, in hospital every day through this pandemic), got the first dose of Covishield yesterday.
Next dose in 28 days.
Brother (30, doctor, been working the covid ward) up for his first jab in a couple of days.
Can’t say I’m not relieved.
Ancient wisdom to fights winter allergies - a fresh Turmeric/Haldi Kadha!
Boil 1 inch piece each fresh Haldi & Ginger in 1.5 cups of water, simmer for 5-7 minutes. Take off heat & add juice of 1/2 a Lemon. Strain & add Jaggery (great for fighting Carbon pollution). Sip while hot.
TIL that the word ‘lens’ comes from the word Lentil, yes, our ubiquitous Dal.
“It was the curved shape of the lens that led to its name being borrowed, in the late 17th century, from the Latin name of the lentil plant, lens culinaris.”
Cooking with many little lenses today!
At Nalanda. Scrolling through pics, I find this one, in which the shadow of my hands holding up my phone has added one more stupa to this memorial cluster. Always read stupas as the meditating Buddha, I suddenly realise they also shadow the shape of hands held up in prayer. 🙏🏼😯
Bounty.
Never have I appreciated my mother’s kitchen garden more than in these times. The last of the moolis, the first of the tamatars.
Mooli-parathas will become. ☺️
Also, do you like pic 1 more or pic 2?
Count how many Baby Jackfruits there are on the tree?
Indigenous to the Western Ghats, the Jackfruit is a desi gift to the rest of the world, like coconut. The Portuguese called it Jaca, from ‘Chakka’ (what Jackfruit is called in Kerala, Karnataka). Chakka to Jaca to Jackfruit!
The stupa-style
#Golghar
at
#Patna
is India’s largest
#Granary
. Commissioned by Warren Hastings as the 1st of many such (never built) to store grain for the famines of East India. Pic 2 is of a plaque on it, with no date of ‘Filling and Clofing’ as it never was filled completely.
Mudhi Mansa from Orissa! A warriors breakfast in Ashoka’s army, Moori (puffed rice) + a Mutton Curry would be eaten for sustenance by marching armies. Later favoured by the Mayurbhanj Kings. Mayurbhanj is known to be a significant producer of Moori today, & this is a common meal.
Some more bartan from the same mountain village in the Tons Valley. Garhwal is where both the Ganga & Yamuna take birth, the Tons is the third great river that took birth there & believed to have - according to local myths, at one time, hit the plains and become the Saraswati.
Bombay Sandwich! From delicate cucumber sandwiches at high-teas in Brits-only clubs to these over-stuffed sandwiches at roadside stalls all over Mumbai, this sandwich has had quite a journey to becoming an all-around favourite. Goes best with chutney/sauce, maybe some sev on top?
This thing of beauty is a wine cup, & no ordinary wine cup, it’s the wine cup of the 5th Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan! It may not look like it but it’s made of jade - incandescent white nephrite jade. Dated 1657 CE, it’s at the
@V_and_A
in London.
Mallaiyo in Banaras. Makkhan Malai/Nimish in Lucknow. Daulat Ki Chaat in (old) Delhi. Ingenious. A foam-like saffron scented winter dessert. Ingenious. Was probably invented by mistake, like butter was. There is a Parsi version called Doodh Na Puff that is rose-water scented.
This image is by my friend
@himalayputra
. It was taken at the Kempty Falls in Mussoorie, Uttarakhand, one week ago.
If this doesn’t get you to NOT use single use plastics, you’re not a bad person, you’re just plain stupid.
#PlasticFreeIndia
#PlasticFreeHimalayas
My grandparents at their wedding in Lahore, 1941. Nanaji was from Poonch, in Kashmir, settled in Montgomery, then Lahore. My Nani was a Sawhney from Bhera, Pakistan - where they still have the Sethiyan & Sahniyan da Mohallas. In 1947, they fled riots in Lahore, for Simla.
No kites but here’s paper-planes full of love and luck and loads of sunshine that our bachchas up at the
@kalaptrust
school send to you. Happy Sankranti. 🌞
An apple a day can keep devastation away.
@TonsTrails
started this initiative to help the people of the Tons Valley in this time of crisis.
We are trying to do this without asking for donations, we are only asking you to buy some beautiful mountain Apples.
🍎🍏
#Uttarakhand
BUY FARM FRESH CRISP APPLES FROM US!
Help the people rendered unemployed by shutdown of tourism!
PLEASE RT AND SUPPORT!
( - buy online)
32 boxes ordered (12 Big, 20 Small) since we posted on our Facebook Page () yesterday!
1/n
My father was born on Ganesh Chaturthi day, and he has these big ears flanking his head like so in the picture. Oh our little ‘Gonesh’ has arrived they pronounced, and like all good bangalees do, promptly gave him a daak naam, ‘Kanu’ for the big ears. Happy Birthday, Kanu. ❤️
I got a call from Shahnawaz today,
S: Mubarak ho!
Me: Phir se Khala ban gayee main?? Ladka ya Ladki?
S: Guess karo.
Me: Ladki!
S: Sahi bole tum, Lakshmi aayi hai, khushi layi hai.
I say Khala, he says Lakshmi. It’s effortless. This is the beauty of how we are. And must remain.
🙏🏼
Old pic is a beautiful kitchen in rural Sikkim. Kansa bartans rule the roost here as well. On the left is the raised wood-fire choolah, you can see where the log of wood goes in. Underneath this is an area to store the wood.
Changing light as day turns to night! Can you guess which great Epic is being enacted here? This is in our little mountain village of Kalap in the Tons Valley, at the annual winter festival every held every January.
#NoFilter
Bamboo as a vessel. This is in Uttarandhra, but I’ve seen the same practice in Sikkim and many parts of the the North East too. I’ve heard of bamboo stems being used to cook in, in some tribal communities in Maharashtra too but haven’t ever seen that myself.
Maa’s ever-faithful black diary is older than I am. Other than recipes collected over the years, it has my milestones too - dates I first sat, crawled, walked, spouted my first tooth.
When in the mountains, eat snow.
This isn’t a Halwa, this is Hyun.
Fresh snow flavoured with Seabuckthorn juice, roasted Jeera, Salt, and with bits of dried Apricot in it. This and that View. 🤍
#TonsTales
#MountainLife