Caroline Eden @edentravels Twitter profile | Pikagi

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Caroline Eden

@edentravels

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Writer about places. Red Sands: Reportage & Recipes Through Central Asia, a ‘book of the year’ for New Yorker and FT. New book Cold Kitchen (Bloomsbury) out now

Here and there all at once

https://t.co/CsszoQ7ISK

Joined March 2010

Don't wanna be here? Send us removal request.

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@edentravels

Caroline Eden

2 years

📚NEWS! I'm thrilled to tell you that @BloomsburyBooks will publish my memoir, COLD KITCHEN - On Departures, Arrivals and Coming Home to the Table, in spring 2024. Weaving in and out of my subterranean kitchen, it opens in Uzbekistan and ends in Ukraine.

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Bloomsbury lands Eden’s 'transporting' kitchen-centred literary memoir

Bloomsbury has signed Cold Kitchen: On Departures, Arrivals and Coming Home to the Table by writer and critic Caroline Eden.

www.thebookseller.com

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@edentravels

Caroline Eden

2 years

A rare snow leopard roaming on Mount Everest at 18,000ft, photo published in @thetimes today by Kittiya Pawlowski. What a shot!

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2 years

One of the best ever

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5 months

In a couple of weeks, poppies will colour red southern Kazakhstan, from the train you can see them stretch for miles and miles:

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1 year

Just an average pavement display as we’re in Georgia and it is June 🇬🇪🍓

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4 years

Beautifully backlit Uzbek suzanis, stitched with pomegranates.

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2 years

In case you aren’t aware of Riga’s remarkable Art Nouveau architecture, I am here to show you:

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2 years

Ukrainian military sit back in a makeshift sauna built in an underground bunker in Bakhmut. Brilliant photograph by Chris McGrath in @thetimes today

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1 year

Armenia is suffering immensely at the moment. If you are thinking of visiting the South Caucasus this year, go to Armenia. Incredible food, wine, churches, trekking, music, art. Warm, generous people. Pain, yes, but much pride and hope. I left a sizeable piece of my heart there.

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1 year

In Jūrmala, Latvia, on this sunny cold morning and wondering what I’d need to do to buy this mansion

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6 months

Let’s normalise wine in bookshops like in Moldova?

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2 years

This is Odesa, the smartest, funniest, wiliest city on the Black Sea, filled with ideas and books and history. A city of good food, wine and music. A city of dreams. To lose it to Putin and his mindless thugs is unimaginable.

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2 years

Back to Riga where I will happily pay almost two euros for fresh non bread from the Uzbek bakers at Registan.

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5 years

Going by train through southern Kazakhstan, miles and miles of red poppies...

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1 month

JD Vance: women who haven’t given birth like Kamala Harris are “childless cat ladies who are miserable at their own lives.” Me:

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2 years

A tigress roams through purple water hyacinths in India’s Pilibhit Tiger Reserve. A beautiful photograph that cannot help but lift the heart a little. By Sanjay Nair for Mercury Press.

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4 years

My 20-something friends here in Bishkek are certain about one thing: they want old men out and fresh blood and women in. Enough of the corruption of older male politicians, who readily switch parties to stay in power, they say. ‘They are ineffective and do nothing.’

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4 years

Cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin was born on this day in 1934. This monument is in Karaganda, Kazakhstan.

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4 years

Thrilled to announce that RED SANDS - Reportage and Recipes through Central Asia - will be out mid-November. Named after the Kyzylkum Desert, the journey traverses mountains, sand dunes, cities and steppe. And it has an identity! Here is the exuberant cover:

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2 years

In looking at Rīga, under a fine dusting of snow, you can’t help but wonder… “how is this city not fiction or fairytale?”

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Caroline Eden

2 months

Leaving you with something different ahead of the weekend: this remarkable photo, taken in the summer of 1987, by photographer Paul Veysseyre. It is a mansion, built on the remains of a Genoese fortress, on the Turkish Black Sea coast (near Ordu).

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5 years

Mayakovsky does it best.

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3 years

Coffered roofs in Uzbekistan decorated in traditional style. Even the smallest towns employ painters and carvers to work on columns, panels and friezes.

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3 years

Autumn in Tajikistan looks like this 🧡

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2 years

Reunited at a train platform in Lviv. Moving photo by Jeff J. Mitchell in @nytimes today

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3 years

Train folk, travel the tracks with Russian illustrator Anna Desnitskaya (I am a little obsessed)

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1 year

A reminder of just how spectacular Bishkek’s central post office is:

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1 year

The pull of Riga Central Market where fresh Uzbek non bread is made every morning at the Registan bakery

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13 days

August of another year when I found *the* perfect reading spot, in northern Turkey with views of misty Black Sea hills.

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Caroline Eden

2 years

Why do I cook? Because it turns off the world a while.

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2 years

Sure, I see your ‘how pasta is made’ viral video and I raise you the baker boys of Chorsu Bazaar, Tashkent

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2 years

Don’t ever be the sort of woman who sniggers at another woman dining solo.

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6 months

It goes without saying that people are exhausted in Odesa - of air raids, missiles and war. But this girl, on Valentine’s Day, lit up the whole street with her smile♥️ (I asked if I could take her photo)

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3 years

A while ago I met Gyumri’s monumental iron fountain, and it is quite something. Completed in 1982 by Armenian architect Artur Tarkhanyan.

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5 months

Love these paintings of family dinners by the Kazakh artist Gulnara Dairova

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2 years

Samarkand ‘afternoon tea’ a few years back. Missing it.

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3 years

Best photograph ever taken of Bishkek? Quite possibly. Follow @northern .friend on Instagram for more...

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3 years

The ultimate reading spot, in Çamlıhemşin, Turkey, close to the Black Sea. Photo taken by @theodorekaye for my book, Black Sea (2018)

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3 years

Egg designs from Poland’s State Ethnographic Museum in Warsaw (visited last year)

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4 years

On a PKP Intercity train in Poland. Handed a free ‘safety’ package - contains mask, gloves and wipes. Are we doing this on UK trains?

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3 years

Sowing seeds in Ukraine, even in the midst of all this... The image is a photograph I took of a painting in Kyiv a few years ago. To me it symbolises Ukraine’s unique strength and resilience.

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4 years

Kyrgyzstan’s new biometric passports are ... pretty trippy

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4 years

Soviet-era soda shop - currently closed for repair - inside Bishkek’s Oak Park.

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6 months

Meanwhile we’re in a bomb shelter in Odesa at 5am as Russia fires missiles at civilians in Ukraine for its nightly attacks. But sure, subways. Jesus Christ.

@TuckerCarlson

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TC Shorts: The Moscow Subway Station

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4 years

The work of fourth-generation master ikat weaver Fazlitdin Dadajanov. Margilan, Uzbekistan.

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4 years

@hels Reminding me a little of this Latvian sea buckthorn cheesecake I tried recently. Kind of weird, kind of wonderful. I’m still confused.

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2 years

Snapshots of Odesa from six years ago. I was there researching my book ‘Black Sea’ and I fell in love, intoxicated its literary heritage, pickle-filled courtyards, and a very particular melancholy that comes in on the sea breeze... then suddenly leaves again.

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2 years

Walking in Georgia today, deep purple Siberian irises with far views of South Ossetia

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3 years

Samarkand shines on ✨

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4 years

Edible art at the roadside, somewhere in Azerbaijan.

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2 years

Great photograph by Sergey Ponomarev in The New York Times today of Uzbek truckers having lunch as they wait for their turn to cross the Georgia-Russia border.

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1 year

I’d rather be in Uzbekistan

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2 years

Wrote a piece for @GuardianTravel about how spending your holiday money this year in Poland - a country with a long history of resistance - can help support Ukraine. Feat. my love of Polish soup, Adam Mickiewicz, @zuzazak ’s cookbooks & Massolit bookshop

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How a holiday in Poland can help support Ukraine

Warsaw, Kraków and Gdańsk are home to atmospheric cafes, a history of resistance and a rich cuisine – and by visiting now you can boost Poland’s heroic efforts to help Ukraine

www.theguardian.com

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3 years

Almaty! Rakhat chocolate bars from Kazakhstan continue to win at packaging (pics from their Instagram account)

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3 years

Bus stop, Atyrau, Kazakhstan. Photograph by Christopher Herwig, included in his book Soviet Bus Stops (⁦ @FuelPublishing ⁩ 2015)

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4 years

Margilan, in Uzbekistan, is famous for ikat and silk but the bread, too, is exceptional. (Posting this simply as today is a rubbish day and this photo is uplifting)

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4 years

Istanbul’s restored Bulgarian iron church complete with pomegranate and olive trees.

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2 years

Today’s view. Greater Caucasus, perfection.

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4 years

Christmas tree is up.

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2 years

Lviv. City of lions. Now hit by multiple cowardly missles. I was there in November and remember the smell of coffee on every corner, the tight courtyards, the trams... “It is a city on the edge of many places, a space of constant insecurity” as wrote Philippe Sands of it.

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4 years

Recalling the absolute joy of waking up on a sleeper train and stepping out of a railway station that looks like this. Kazan, 2018.

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1 year

Breakfast in the Kyzylkum Desert, Uzbekistan, springtime morning of another year.

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4 years

Golden light, midafternoon

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3 years

Last night Red Sands won the André Simon award for best food book 2020! Previous winners inc. some of my favourite writers: Claudia Roden, Rachel Roddy, Fuchsia Dunlop and Diana Henry so I am honoured (almost!) beyond words. Thank you to the judges and for all the kind messages.

@AndreSimonAward

André Simon Awards

@AndreSimonAward

3 years

Congratulations Caroline Eden on winning the Food Award for Red Sands! @edentravels @quadrillefood #andresimonawards2020

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1 year

Please share to raise awareness, a handful of journalists outside of Armenia have written this terrible situation up in international media and I hope more will, quickly. Things are truly desperate in Artsakh.

@nmatini

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1 year

“After waiting for hours in a 🍞 queue, when it was finally my turn, there was no more bread left. For a mother, to have money in hand, but unable to feed your child… such a powerless feeling…” Taguhi, mother of 1,5-year-old child #NagornoKarabakh #UNSC #StopArtsakhGenocide

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4 years

For everyone missing Samarkand✨ Photograph by @theodorekaye for Red Sands.

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1 year

Do tell, NYT, where exactly is the ‘Caucasus area of Central Asia’? I certainly haven’t been there yet. Has anyone? I sure doubt it.

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2 years

Whoever did this 👌🏻

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2 years

A photo I took in Odesa in the winter of 2017. The sky and the beautiful classical building in the colours of Ukraine 🇺🇦 I am at a loss today. Praying and hoping. #StandWithUkraine

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4 months

What a photo by Nantapon Pattamakijsakul in The Times today! A Kazakh eagle hunter and a very expressionate horse in the Altai Mountains.

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2 years

Red Sands was published, during lockdown, two years ago this week. It was a real privilege to write it and to tell the stories of Kazakh bakers and dairy barons, Tajik botanists, Uzbek confectioners, and tales of Anna Akhmatova in Tashkent. Dare I say: may be good for Christmas?

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1 year

Sad to have left Rīga last night and my dog-in-the-window neighbour 💔

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2 years

A food photographer in LA ( @marissamakes_ on Instagram) shot this picture of varenyky for #CookForUkraine and it’s so beautiful I’d really like it on my wall.

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2 years

The Great Synagogue of Tbilisi and its specatcular interior, a few more photographs below in the thread:

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3 years

Last day of January and welcome sunshine here in Edinburgh

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2 years

God bless Odesa

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2 years

One more…

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2 years

Tbilisi. Sunset colouring the television tower…

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2 years

Gözleme for breakfast. So mild in Istanbul that I’m eating it outside on the Bosporus.

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2 years

Book recommendation: just published and with proceeds going to @PenUkraine to help authors in need *and* with a foreword by @AKurkov - really beautiful chapters on art, architecture, ceramics, churches. Good for both those in-the-know and learning.

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2 years

Kazakh hunter, Serik Jenisbek, training his eagle in western Mongolia. Outstanding photo in The Times today by Paul Zizka.

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4 years

It is May which means the desert steppe of Uzbekistan will now be blooming with poppies.

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4 years

Uzbek chapans, late 19th century.

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1 year

UK-based and up for winning a copy of my recent book Red Sands? Simply like or RT this post and I’ll choose a random winner on Sunday 💫

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2 years

In Armenia, last summer, I was given a bag of apricots from these generous fruit pickers. I still dream of them and find myself picking up boxes of apricots in UK supermarkets but I always put them back down. They cannot compete, there is no point. Better to remember and imagine.

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2 years

A short walk in the South Caucasus

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3 years

Excellent morning escapism through the Kazakh steppe here in this photo essay. Read from the comfort of bed... I’ve done the time on those rails.

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Across Kazakhstan by rail – a photo essay

Photographer Mario Heller spent three weeks crossing the steppe by train. Here is his journey through the stories of the passengers, the history of the country and the romance of the railway

www.theguardian.com

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1 year

There isn’t a better smell in the world.

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2 years

It is Ukrainian Independence Day. Hats off to @JoannRandles for this incredible photo in The Times today. It is young ballerina Kateryna Andrushyna, from Boryspil, dancing near Swansea where she has found a temporary home.

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4 months

There are many outstanding things to eat in Georgia but more ought to be said about the tiny potatoes that are on menus come May. Served with green tkemali, sour plum sauce, and dill… I dream of these. Wish I was there.

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3 years

Hiking in Armenia was the highlight of 2021. Heartbreaking, enlightening, often magical, sometimes all at once.

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3 years

“Loving life is easy when you are abroad. Where no-one knows you and you hold life in your hands all alone, you are more master of yourself than at any other time.” ~ Hannah Arendt

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1 year

I’ve had the same elderly Georgian driver drop me off and pick me up at Tbilisi airport during recent trips. This morning, at 5am, in a scrum of arrivals, he spotted me, pushed forward, shook my hand and held it - like I was family - until we were out of the arrivals hall 🥺

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5 years

I wrote about Uzbekistan's peculiar and highly prized winter melons for @FTMag .

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The magic of Uzbek winter melons: gifts ‘of rare and strange beauty’

Why these fruits have bewitched travellers to Central Asia for centuries

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1 year

Next week, back to Georgia 🏔️

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4 years

Shockingly unethical to start a jolly food jaunt in Kashgar. Will there be a side trip to concentration camp kitchens?

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3 years

Dappled light in Almaty, Kazakhstan. And dreams of summer elsewhere...

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3 years

This photograph is everything. Eartha Kitt, Istanbul, 1949

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4 years

Good morning. Here is a story I wrote about western Kazakhstan.

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Feasts and holy days in the Kazakhstan desert

Sometimes the most interesting cooking is found in the most unlikely places, as our writer discovers on a road trip in the country’s vast wild west

www.theguardian.com

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1 year

Mount Ushba early this morning, some kind of heaven 🇬🇪⛰️

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