The Surfer's Journal @SurfersJournal Twitter profile | Pikagi

Pikagi

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

88,476

Followers

109

Following

2,011

Media

3,565

Statuses

A reader-supported surf publication since 1992.

San Clemente, CA

https://t.co/zM1S4pp01Z

Joined February 2009

Don't wanna be here? Send us removal request.

Pinned Tweet

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

1 month

On the cover: J Riddle, on location in El Salvador, earning stunt rates via period-correct positioning and equipage during the filming of John Milius’ “Big Wednesday.” Photograph by Dan Merkel/Lost & Found. Hit the link to preview our new issue.

Tweet media one

1

13

42

Last Seen Profiles

@Chorrozard

@xUnion_13

@altnburi

@6startraveluk

@ya71742

@bokeplokalmalam

@salbbsna1

@sezzle1974

@UnleashedPuppy

@Babsschett

@144ky

@WomenOf_FF

@evans_laur82753

@salbbsna1

@AhlamPictures

@PijatPasutriYK

@ChrisBishopPod

@thotdsh

@yuimon64

@EriccaKesh69742

@SarachicaX

@nnnxxx456

@mrkanee702

@fbphofficial

@VHx400oTxPe75BQ

@evligiz60125833

@yuu1218ura

@PlutoRockDog

@Grampa_Ivy

@WellsTammy17682

@mistahcaesar

@25stwfd

@doongtagdoontop

@nottopkhfackme

@AECmagazine

@Rubitvcuerna

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

A natural gift. Photo by Mark Kronemeyer.

Tweet media one

6

75

716

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

A Puerto Escondido intersection, Greg Long with the green light. Photo by Alex Patrick.

Tweet media one

6

89

643

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Gathering bearings, Mexico. Photo by Mark Kronemeyer.

Tweet media one

7

85

564

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

To all the dads out there who've kept us on point: happy Father's Day. Photo courtesy of the Walla family.

Tweet media one

6

84

530

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Greg Noll, 1937-2021.

Tweet media one

12

76

514

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Harrison Roach, well-sorted on a Desert Point high line. Photo by Harry Mark.

Tweet media one

2

57

494

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

An outside scratch in the glass. Photo by Don Balch.

Tweet media one

4

75

492

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

Straight out of a tryptophan-induced dream. Photo by Logan Murray.

Tweet media one

9

61

485

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

Nate Zoller, stretching his rubber in Alaska. Photo by Chris Burkard.

Tweet media one

3

58

465

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Hoppy Swarts, Hermosa Pier, 1940. Photo by Doc Ball.

Tweet media one

3

54

465

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Rio de Janeiro's wedge au naturale. Photograph by Ben DeCamp.

Tweet media one

6

68

456

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Torrey Meister chocolate-tinted soul-arch. Photo by Seth de Roulet.

Tweet media one

6

46

454

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

4 years

Francisco Porcella, Maverick's, 2019. Photograph by Derek Dunfee.

Tweet media one

4

64

442

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

Roadside attraction, Basque Country. Photo by Javier Muñoz.

Tweet media one

6

65

444

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Indonesian jungle juice. Photo by Lance Slabbert.

Tweet media one

4

63

432

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Teahupoo denizen Matahi Drollet, comfortable in the funhouse. Photo by Domenic Masqueira.

Tweet media one

3

56

433

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

Jack Robinson, fanning his tail somewhere north of Perth. Photograph by Russell Ord.

Tweet media one

5

41

429

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

Kalohe Danbara, piercing a wrinkled surface, Huntington Beach. Photo by Brian Bott.

Tweet media one

2

62

405

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

Huntington Beach Pier, 1977. Unknown kneeboarder, dipping into the Northside bowl. Photo by Steve Sakamoto.

Tweet media one

5

46

391

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

4 years

Kai Lenny, Maverick’s. “I always try to sit over on the left, as long as the swell is the right direction and not too big,” says photographer Seth de Roulet, “Otherwise it doesn’t feel safe. You can definitely get caught over there."

Tweet media one

6

72

387

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Mikey DeTemple, Caribbean. "I’ll shoot a winter storm in New England," says photographer Nick Lavecchia, "then fly south to score that same swell in the Caribbean. It's a beneficial balance."

Tweet media one

3

46

372

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

4 years

Mick Fanning, unfazed by backwash at Snapper Rocks. Photograph by Trevor Moran.

Tweet media one

3

63

368

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

4 years

Mikey Wright, morning crack at Duranbah. Photograph by Trevor Moran.

Tweet media one

2

71

367

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

4 years

Certain regions of Australia have a knack for creating both terrifying waves and the type of surfer who’s willing to risk serious bodily harm to ride them—elements equally on display in this photo of local Brett Burcher by Steve Wall.

Tweet media one

6

61

355

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Balaram Stack, Pipeline, 2018. Photo by Trevor Moran.

Tweet media one

1

42

368

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Robin Kegel, leaning into a Basque Country peeler. Photo by Thomas Lodin.

Tweet media one

4

43

355

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

John John Florence, Japan. "The late drop is one of surfing’s most intense sensations," says photographer Nathan Lawrence, "but it’s always lost in the hindsight of everything that happens next."

Tweet media one

0

46

354

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

5 years

Nathan Fletcher, point of no return. Phantoms, North Shore, winter 2009/10. Photograph by Hank.

Tweet media one

3

80

348

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

Tommy Witt in the Antilles, with Justin Quintal scrambling the autofocus. Photo by Chris Klopf.

Tweet media one

1

47

339

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

“Davy Jones, party of one...”: Rodrigo Reinoso abandons his futile scramble for the vertex and accepts his fate indiscriminately dealt by Teahupoo. Photograph by Jon Aspuru. Pulled from TSJ 32.2's Undercurrents.

Tweet media one

6

48

341

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Lip augmentation by Craig Anderson. Photo by Nick Green.

Tweet media one

1

40

333

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Baja surf check, 1985. Photo by Larry "Flame" Moore.

Tweet media one

2

48

328

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Indo glass-off. Photo by Pete Frieden.

Tweet media one

5

42

332

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Photographer Ben Thouard’s first attempt at shooting lineups from his paraglider on an evening ride over Tahiti in 2010.

Tweet media one

2

34

326

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Unidentified, bucked over the boil, 1976. Photograph by Jeff Divine.

Tweet media one

0

53

329

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Will Skudin, Nazaré, 2018. "It's the hardest place to shoot," says photographer Derek Dunfee. "There's no channel, no real lineup. It's complete chaos."

Tweet media one

3

47

329

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

4 years

"A typical California beachbreak on its day," says photographer Chris Burkard. "You travel around the world, and come home to realize it’s all here. This was just one of those rare days when it all came together, especially for this unidentified guy getting the wave of his life."

Tweet media one

3

54

324

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

7 months

John John Florence, mid-sear at Rocky Point. Photograph by Grant Ellis.

Tweet media one

4

51

333

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Pipeline 1974. "There were dozens of competent surfers living within walking distance of Pipeline, many of whom remained unknown," says photographer Jeff Divine. "We called them 'neighborhood nobodies.'"

Tweet media one

0

49

322

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Dane Reynolds, Mexico, 2011. “Dane had just healed from an ankle injury so he jumped on this trip at the last minute," says photographer Jimmicane, "which turned an already-good crew into a great crew.”

Tweet media one

1

43

323

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Avalon traffic, circa 1961. Photo by Ron Perrott.

Tweet media one

4

56

316

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Harrison Roach, leaning into a late afternoon Alaskan barrel. Photo by Chris Burkard.

Tweet media one

3

50

311

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

View from the cornucopia. Photo by Nathaniel Harrington.

Tweet media one

1

41

308

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

"Ryan Callinan and I surfed a crazy barreling right in Indo all morning, and sailed around the corner and surfed this wave in the afternoon," says photographer Duncan Macfarlane.

Tweet media one

1

47

309

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Shaun Manners, steel-nerved in West Oz. Photo by Kim Feast.

Tweet media one

6

30

305

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

For all the rides—and everything else—they've given us, happy Mother's Day. Kelia Moniz Termini and son, on a pacifying slide. Photo by Yoshi Tanaka.

Tweet media one

2

35

302

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

4 years

Mick Fanning, burning speed with a late afternoon rail-grab in Indonesia. Photograph by Andrew Buckley.

Tweet media one

2

23

300

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

"It's moments like this," says photographer Geoff Ragatz, "in a place far away from home, where there's no interference from anyone or anything save for the sounds of a peeling pointbreak, that reminds me how fortunate we truly are as surfers."

Tweet media one

2

48

295

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

4 years

Hayashi Kenta lends a bit of human scale in Japan. Photograph by Scott Bailey.

Tweet media one

4

35

295

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Dillon Perillo, sure-footed and ideally placed for an Indonesian horseshoe. Photo by Nate Lawrence.

Tweet media one

0

32

296

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

1 year

July's edition of The High Line is dropping soon, featuring TSJ 32.1 Page One subject Shaun Manners' "Cult of Freedom" part, lunar tunes, surf prose, ephemera, and more. Hit the link to make sure our monthly newsletter lands in your inbox soon.

8

51

295

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

4 years

"The cliffs down the coast from where I live are ancient and unique, even for Australia," says photographer Ed Sloane. "It’s one of the most beautiful places to go surfing in the world, I think."

Tweet media one

1

41

281

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Herbie Fletcher plies his half-century trade in the Trestles zone. The thrill, as it turns out, is still here. Photo by Tom Servais.

Tweet media one

1

29

289

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Dion Agius, dry docking on a French beach. Photo by DJ Struntz.

Tweet media one

5

44

284

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

From the region that brought you Pelé and Fittipaldi, Paulista Gabriel Medina sacked the world surfing circuit with stone faced equanimity. Hit the link to read "Pulling Guard," author Adrian Kojin's profile of Medina.

Tweet media one

2

35

281

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

4 years

Indonesian Made Switra, right at home. Photo by Jason Childs.

Tweet media one

0

26

277

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Photographer Tom Carey and surfer Imaikalani deVault found this fresh swell too north for their go-to Maui setup. Luckily, this substitute nook offered brief opportunities for single-hit slams, and was rich in mood, lighting, and background.

Tweet media one

3

37

282

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

Margo Oberg, Sunset, late '70s, preparing to pull up into the eye of the storm. From TSJ 12.2.

Tweet media one

0

30

281

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

4 years

John John Florence, taking a chunk out of Trestles' coping. Photograph by Ryan Miller.

Tweet media one

1

37

277

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Sand-bottomed solitaire in the land of red, white, and green. Photo by Mark Kronemeyer.

Tweet media one

4

36

278

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

4 years

Mikala Jones, Andaman Islands, 2002. Photograph by Art Brewer.

Tweet media one

1

44

275

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

Slipping under the radar. Photo by Kenny Hurtado.

Tweet media one

1

36

270

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

Surf check with JJ Wessels. Photo by Tin Ojeda. Pulled from TSJ 24.2's "Triple X."

Tweet media one

1

50

273

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

When the anchor can't drop fast enough. Photo by Mark Kronemeyer.

Tweet media one

4

34

264

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Torren Martyn, into the wind in Iceland. Photograph by Ted Grambeau.

Tweet media one

1

31

266

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

“Thoughts of this volcano keep me up at night,” says photographer Chris Burkard. “So when it popped out briefly [from the clouds], I begged the boys to paddle back out. They surfed until 9 o’clock, bodies aching and tired.” Parker Coffin finds the magic frame.

Tweet media one

4

36

262

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

1 year

“Bringing a frame into images creates a sense of being there,” says photographer Nick LaVechhia, “no matter where you are.”

Tweet media one

2

39

257

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

4 years

"I was digging the light and the bombie sets," says photographer Mike Findlay. "So I ventured up the point to escape the glare. Ketut and Dragon, two G-Land staffers, walked out for their afternoon break to net-fish. It just came together."

Tweet media one

3

32

254

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

At the end of a Mainland Mexico road, 1964. Photo by Leo Hetzel.

Tweet media one

4

50

255

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Greg Long, artfully negotiating a misplaced step. Photo by Al Mackinnon.

Tweet media one

3

20

255

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

“At a certain swell height,” says Phil Goodrich, “around 8 feet, Macaronis stops getting taller and begins to just get thicker.” Photo by Andy Potts.

Tweet media one

2

35

252

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

5 months

Kelly Slater, G-Land, 2008. “Kelly, Shane Dorian, and I took a helicopter from Bali,” says photographer Jason Childs. “When we got there, the tide got low, the swell filled in, and Speedies lit up. Kelly was riding a 6'4" while everyone else was riding 7'6"s.”

Tweet media one

6

27

256

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

George Greenough, putting theory into practice, 1974. “I used to have the whole sequence from this wave,” says photographer Steve Bissell. “This is the only slide that survived the fire.”

Tweet media one

4

39

252

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

"Jayce Robinson is one of Britain’s most technically proficient surfers," says photographer Al Mackinnon. "This was right at the end of a somewhat tricky session on a British slab. We hadn’t got much until this point."

Tweet media one

4

30

248

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

4 years

Derrick Disney, taking the low road in Baja. Photograph by Kenny Hurtado.

Tweet media one

5

32

241

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Bruce Irons, Keramas. "I hadn’t seen much of Bruce’s surfing for a couple years before he paddled out that afternoon," says photographer Laserwolf. "But his style is so natural that every frame from this session was a keeper. He never disappoints."

Tweet media one

6

31

247

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Jamie Sterling, Chile. "A wild day, really foggy and dark with a lot of swell in the water," recalls photographer Tyler Cuddy. "We were kind of bored with this other wave Jamie had been surfing, so we drove around and found this."

Tweet media one

2

32

247

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

Terry Fitzgerald's quiver, circa December 1975. Every element of his trip in this era was designed to stop viewers in their tracks. His balls-to-wall surfing kept it all grounded and thoroughly legitimate. Photo by Jeff Divine.

Tweet media one

4

22

243

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Peter Haines laying it way out on a David Kahanamoku/Ben Aipa-inspired woodcore stinger skimboard, circa 1978. Photo courtesy of Tex Haines.

Tweet media one

0

30

242

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

The August edition of our monthly newsletter is set to drop, featuring "Glad You Scored," the latest flick by Dane Reynolds and his Chapter 11 acolytes. Hit the link to see more and to make sure The High Line lands in your inbox tomorrow.

0

39

241

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Jordy Smith, taking a chunk out of the coping in Mexico. Photo by Jan Bijl.

Tweet media one

0

22

243

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

4 years

"I shot this North African stack from about a mile away," says photographer Corey Wilson. "I ran up the mountain for the angle, screaming at the top of my lungs. The waves were that good."

Tweet media one

4

36

239

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

A sheltered corner from outside maelstrom. Photo by Cory Scott.

Tweet media one

4

26

236

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

4 years

Those of a certain vintage invariably connect with John John Florence’s lines of dance. After all, there’s very few surfers capable of conjuring a Phil Edwards drop-knee turn at-speed on modern equipage. Photograph by Pete Frieden.

Tweet media one

5

40

234

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

4 years

Mason Ho at The Eddie, Waimea Bay, 2016. "I didn’t get out of the water for eight hours," says photographer Zak Noyle. "The event hadn’t happened for seven years and who knew when it could happen again. It's such an honor to be a part of it, and I wasn’t going to miss a second."

Tweet media one

4

48

229

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

“There’s no such thing as retirement," said Nathan Fletcher in TSJ 23.5. "It’s more like trying to be there on the days and participate and go home safely...But other people have their intentions and that’s fine too, you know?" Photo by Brian Bielmann.

Tweet media one

3

31

234

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Mason Ho, pulling the handbrake in Indo. Photo by Pete Frieden.

Tweet media one

2

38

232

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

Ben Macartney, Sydney, Australia. “The banks had been pushed out so far past the reef that the takeoff was in line with the cemetery,” says photographer Bill Morris.

Tweet media one

5

44

237

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 months

Teahupoo, Tahiti, 2015. “High noon and not a breath of wind,” says photographer Kirvan Baldassari, “I’ve never witnessed a session at Teahupoo—or anywhere else, for that matter—that was as glassy and crystal clear.”

Tweet media one

1

43

240

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

"I shot this while walking back to the car after taking a piss," says SA Rips. "Ellis Ericson caught the wave before the one here, and I saw him through the window. I thought it was a cool angle, so I stayed there and snapped the next wave, which was this one of Beau Foster."

Tweet media one

6

26

234

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

South African Shaun Payne with speed to bleed in Morocco. Photo by Alan van Gysen.

Tweet media one

1

26

235

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

11 months

Impressionist movement by Dave Rastovich. Photo by Josh Kimball.

Tweet media one

1

29

232

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

Jordy Smith, leaning in while heading out. Durban, South Africa. Photograph by Luke Patterson.

Tweet media one

2

23

226

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

3 years

"The bodyboarders were all really stoked to see Kelly Slater paddling this day," says photographer Todd Glaser. "They enjoyed having him at their wave on an equal playing field. In turn, they gave him the benefit of the doubt on some really heavy, really critical waves."

Tweet media one

3

27

231

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

Ben Smith and a surging West Oz end bowl. Photo by Kim Feast.

Tweet media one

1

32

222

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

1 year

Dino Andino, Puerto Rico, 1988. Photo by Tony Arruza.

Tweet media one

1

20

232

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

4 years

Nate Tyler's end-of-ride punctuation. Photograph by Teddy Miller.

Tweet media one

2

28

230

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

2 years

”I shot this Moroccan stack from about a mile away with a long lens,” says photographer Corey Wilson. ”I ran up the mountain for the angle, screaming at the top of my lungs. The waves were that good.” Pulled from TSJ 26.1.

Tweet media one

2

45

227

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

4 years

Wilem Banks, driving a knife into a North Atlantic slab. Photograph by Al Mackinnon.

Tweet media one

4

18

223

@SurfersJournal

The Surfer's Journal

@SurfersJournal

4 years

Over the course of his film career, Bruce Brown recorded some of surfing’s most indelible moments—like Greg Noll falling from the sky on an absolute bomb at Waimea Bay.

Tweet media one

1

43

224