Ned Bertz @NedBertz Twitter profile

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

8 months

Fort Kochi standing up for Palestine. One of a series of powerful murals lining the touristy seafront. 🇵🇸

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@NedBertz

3 months

I'm done with major academic conferences for obvious reasons - visa exclusions, high fees, massive size, etc. I adore smaller workshops. Am currently at this lodge in Denmark, with a sea view from my room, talking with compassionate and smart people about Indian Ocean histories.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

8 months

Kerala's backwaters are lovely, a lush and tropical abundance - made my first visit today. I appreciate the state for what is absent, too: a proliferation of massive hoardings of the PM, so ubiquitous up north. (Also spotted in large numbers: firangs floating down the waterways.)

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

8 months

Lodhi Garden on Sunday. Good news: the sun was seen, rare for Delhi in 2023. Bad news: saffron flag waving zealots, keen to disturb the happily mingling picknickers, marched and chanted around the park. How long before these beloved tombs and monuments are next targeted?

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

1 year

Some of the best kebabs in Delhi are found in the gullys of Nizamuddin.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

8 months

Free Umar Khalid! The historian and activist has been in prison without trial for years now. I've met Umar, and his sister was in a batch I taught at AUD. It's tragic and self-defeating for India to suppress such voices. The BBC has picked up the story:

Umar Khalid: Indian activist languishes in jail without bail or trial

Umar Khalid, who was arrested three years ago for alleged involvement in riots, is still waiting for a trial.

www.bbc.com

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

1 year

Lodhi Gardens at monsoon dusk this week, the evening the torrent of rain finally ceased in Delhi. Prayers for the thousands displaced in the city and hills.

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@NedBertz

10 months

A photo I took ten years ago today in Delhi's Lodhi Gardens. It's a favourite because the monuments aren't the focus, but the people who frequent the park - a haunt for families, lovers, cricketers, picknickers, thieves...everyone. Who doesn't love a sunny November day in Dilli!

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

9 months

Delhi's winter's chill is starting to settle in, so tonight was time to find a steaming bowl of thukpa in Humayunpur village.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

1 year

Went to the Partition Museum in the old Dara Shikoh library/British Residency building on the campus of my old haunt Ambedkar University Delhi. Good archival material, narrative unsurprisingly India-centric but interesting section on Dalit experiences of Partition. Recommended!

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

8 months

Today's lunch: the 'ordinary meals' in Kerala are too good. Fluffy & flavourful rice topped with sambar loaded with veggies, followed by a filter coffee (and a nap). It's tempting to call it a simple meal, but it's actually exquisite (yet only Rs. 55).

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

7 months

Saw this sign of the times doing the rounds and thought I'd share as it's Saturday night here. Cheers!

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

10 months

Still two weeks until I reach India so I broke down and cooked moong dal tadka, my first attempt – usually use masoor. I don’t have a pressure cooker so takes forever (world's slowest veggie chopper!) but turned out okay. Can't wait for the for the superior cheap dhaba version.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

1 year

I'm back in India for the first time since the pandemic and am trying to restrain myself from posting like a senti cutlet every time I come across something beloved which I haven't seen in years. 🥹

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

8 months

Kerala is making it very difficult to leave. Spent the afternoon at Kuzhuppilly beach wading in the warm water amid cool ocean breezes, and munching on banana chips while lounging under pine and palm trees. Someone *please* tell me it's not true that my classes open on Monday. 🌴

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

1 year

‘Netflix and chill’ apparently has a suggestive meaning in popular culture. Unfortunately, this was pointed out by giggling students after I innocently used the phrase cueing up a movie clip in class. Since I couldn’t crawl under a rock, I cut the lights to hide my blushing face.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

2 years

Missing Delhi so I cooked myself chole masala. It wasn't half as good as the chole chawal I used to buy off the street for 50 rupees. Haven't been in India since January 2020 because of the pandemic, but a triumphant return is planned for this summer. Chole bhature will be had!!!

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

1 year

Arguably (fight me!), the best cuisine in the Netherlands is Indonesian.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

7 months

Happy aloha Friday from my campus! I can see this spectacular tree from my office, and every year in this season it does not disappoint.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

4 months

Participated in a PhD defense today. I don't know if there is a greater reward in academia than calling a graduate student, by her name, Doctor for the first time. So great to help see an international student (from India) through to her degree after a decade of working together.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

7 months

I love JNU for its academic vibrancy, dhabas, activist spirit, and forested campus. India's premier postgraduate institution has seen sustained attacks, but its architecture is a historical landmark of modern India - this is a great article celebrating it.

Vishal K. Dar celebrates the legacy of a modern Indian icon, Jawaharlal Nehru University

The Masterplan, an exhibition curated by artist Vishal K. Dar, commemorated the Jawaharlal Nehru University campus and pays homage to the vision of its founders and creators at the India Art Fair.

www.architecturaldigest.in

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

1 year

Is there a more comforting comfort food than daal-chawal? I only cook a passable version, but it still brings such contentment.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

9 months

Dear Santa, all I want for Christmas is a big fat research grant. 🎅

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

1 year

I'll celebrate academic good news when I can: one of my former students from when I taught in India has landed a funded PhD at University of Wisconsin-Madison, after lots of applications over multiple years and twelve (count 'em!) letters of recommendations sent off in support.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

4 months

Email is normally the bane of my existence. But once in a while, you get one that makes the heart sing. Hullo, sabbatical for the next year! I mean, once I finish grading the 47 million final essays and exams and writing a few thousand outstanding letters of recommendation and...

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

4 months

Loving everyone's mother's day posts! Even though I know family is complicated. I lost my mum when I was young, but had a chance today to visit her grave after long. A reminder to cherish every minute and memory.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

5 months

I originally shared this picture from my trip to Kochi back in December. According to media reports, it was torn down today by a European tourist. What a horrible thing to do! Silencing is violence.

Austrian woman summoned by Kerala Police for tearing down pro-Palestinian mural

An Austrian Jewish tourist was summoned by Kerala Police after a video of her tearing down a pro-Palestinian mural in Fort Kochi in Ernakulam district went viral on social media.

maktoobmedia.com

Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

8 months

Fort Kochi standing up for Palestine. One of a series of powerful murals lining the touristy seafront. 🇵🇸

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@NedBertz

29 days

Tells you how bad US healthcare is: "When the 24-year-old arrived in Paris she didn’t know that free healthcare was available to all athletes... Ramsey said that she had a free pap smear...booked a dentist appointment and an eye exam."

Team USA medalist becomes free healthcare advocate after discovering it in Olympic Village | CNN

USA rugby sevens bronze medalist Ariana Ramsey has said she’s turned into a universal healthcare advocate after being offered free healthcare in the Olympic Village.

edition.cnn.com

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

8 months

Kerala has a bizarre and awesome tradition for new year's eve: burning Santa Claus in effigy. From giant Santas in large parks to smaller Santas in peoples' homes, all Santas must burn. Out with the old, and in with the new. May there be more light in 2024. 🔥

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

9 months

Academic colleagues and friends, please share: the University of Hawaii is hiring an assistant professor in Asian Studies. It's a really interesting and open call for a position in environmental humanities.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

8 months

No visit to New Delhi is complete without going to the walled city of Old Delhi. Pics of roti making at Karim's, which I visited last week after ages, and the Jama Masjid under a rare blue sky for January.

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@NedBertz

1 year

I have many friends in the West who refuse to believe that India is descending into fascism. This is what it looks like on the ground every day, as experienced by innocent children of minority communities.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

1 month

Two icons of this Indian Ocean archipelago in one frame: the historical carved wooden doors and the less acclaimed but more abundant cats of Zanzibar.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

2 years

Trying out my fancy new standing desk that I could afford with my annual research allocation.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

2 months

I'm finding it easy to make friends in Istanbul. All you have to do is share your doner kebab.

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@NedBertz

4 months

As I was packing up today to leave Hawai'i for fifteen months, I was gifted one last rainbow. Excited for what lies ahead, and grateful for these amazing islands. Mahalo and aloha to all! 🌈

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

5 months

I don't profess to be a good cook, but I keep my tummy happy. Was a chicken and aloo curry Saturday night here...if anyone is feeling peckish, happy to share! Secret ingredient: garam masala picked up on winter visit to Kerala.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

11 months

Sometimes I don't know what to say and can only post pictures of flowers, in this case a hibiscus pushing through a metal fence to face the sun and flourish.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

2 years

Single-screen cinemas are palaces. I saw my first movies in India at the Raj Mandir in Jaipur, Sushmita Sen's Dastak and the unforgettable Raja Hindustani. I know we are losing these gems, but still feel a nostalgic, wistful sadness thinking about them.

In photos: India's disappearing single-screen cinemas

Hemant Chaturvedi has documented 950 theatres across India and the stories behind them.

www.bbc.com

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@NedBertz

9 months

A streetside dhaba on a busy Saturday night. I could eat in joints like this every day.

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@NedBertz

9 months

Fun roaming around my old stomping grounds of Bhogal, home to so many different communities. It was as vibrant and congested as always, and the evening culminated in a stop at one of the most mouthwatering Afghan restaurants in all of Delhi.

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@NedBertz

5 months

What a blessing to take a stroll to the university library today and see this beauty in bloom. Our campus is really stunning if you don't mind all the ugly buildings.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

2 years

Happy lunar new year, folks! The tiger bowing to the rabbit is an auspicious sign for our deeply unequal world in the year to come.

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@NedBertz

4 months

Got to do an Uncle Ned check-in with nephew #2 . Found a rare place in Chicago featuring Keralan food and feasted on prawns moilee & varutharacha veg curry (missed the local red rice). Nephew also needed his favourite chole masala as he’s apparently becoming a pukka Punjabi munda.

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@NedBertz

3 months

Just read Syed Mujtaba Ali's funny, insightful 1930s Bengali travelogue sailing the Arabian Sea. Tempted to post a witticism, but Bengali Twitter might make hilsa of me! Instead, wistfully: "I am Indian. We have been hearing from childhood that we should respect every religion."

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

6 months

The protests in India against CAA felt hopeful, and a long time ago in the wake of today's news. In the joyful spirit of resistance, I share pics from 2019 (pre-Twitter days for me) at the Jama Masjid and Jamia University in Delhi. I've got videos, too.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

1 year

India lands on the moon! It's impressive and inspiring, but don't stain the moment by calling it a 'victory cry of a new India': it wouldn't have happened without Nehru's investment in science and education. Let's celebrate scientific achievement and not nationalism.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

1 month

Spotted around Dar es Salaam: the 'No Time for Love' daladala (local bus), with SRK and Kajol canoodling under the driver's seat. All aboard, friends!

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

1 year

I'm offering a new in-person course in the fall. Reading suggestions welcome! Plan is four units focusing on soccer, cricket, baseball, and the Olympics to think about race, gender, colonialism, and international politics in world history. Poster generated by my department. 🏏

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

9 months

Christmas in Delhi is always fun, from the understated decorations to the nip in the air (cough cough), the aloo paratha for breakfast and shammi kebabs awaiting at the evening party. The best present would be more cheer and light in the world. ✨

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

1 year

My favourite Dilli ka dhaba features a man with a welcoming mooch and chatpata khana washed down with chach. 🔥 So nice to see that the small familiar places are still around and staffed with friendly people who remember you though the years.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

9 months

There is a single amaltas tree blooming in the park opposite my flat, standing proudly on its own. I wish it could tell me: how did you get here, who planted you? Am grateful for its stunning yellow display of flowers.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

2 months

Love going to the market in Dar es Salaam. All this fresh abundance is available for about the same amount as one small, hard avocado imported from Mexico to Hawaii - which tells you how messed up food supply chains are in the west.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

1 year

When flying from India to Hawai'i it's always best to go through Asia rather than Europe & North America: newer airports, less crowded, more affordable…plus it's fun to have a layover in Korea for a lookabout and some good Seoul food.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

8 months

A good start to 2024: sharing my modest loot (damn luggage restrictions) from recent visits to @midlandbook shop in Delhi. Excited to read them all!

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

7 months

Big time nostalgia post: remember those old Nokia phones we all loved which came with the classic snake game? A mutual mentioned this recently so I dug mine up to see if it still works. I'm not surprised, it charged up and switched on, so my Saturday night is gonna be a blast! 🐍

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

11 months

A teaching first: a student who sits in the front row of my large world history lecture course came up before class. He told me he’s not actually enrolled, just tagged along with friends in the class and found he enjoys the lectures. Then he asked if could take the midterm! 😲🥹

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

22 days

Sundown near the harbour in Stone Town, Zanzibar, where having too many balls in the air is an aspiration.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

6 months

This semester I'm teaching a world history graduate seminar and all nine students focus on locations in the broadly defined global south. What a blessing to talk history and politics every week with young scholars who want to turn the discipline on its head and change the world.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

9 months

Scene: Delhi metro x-ray screening. As a woman collected her bag a lunch dabba fell out, bounced off the table and into the air. I somehow caught it, surprising us both! I beamed her a goofy proud grin and she returned a polite thank you, but in my head I was thinking…'hero'.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

4 months

What a lovely orangutan and story: "A Sumatran orangutan in Indonesia has self-medicated using a paste made from plants to heal a large wound on his cheek...the first time a creature in the wild has been recorded treating an injury with a medicinal plant."

Wounded orangutan seen using plant as medicine

It is the first time a creature in the wild has been seen using a medicinal plant to treat a wound.

www.bbc.com

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

10 months

Cooked up some spicy chole masala to enjoy while getting ready for India to knock England out of the cricket world cup. 🌶 #CWC

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

8 months

Gotta love an affordable and atmospheric cafe that insists work is not a priority - coffee, conversation, and snacks matter far more! (Indian Coffee Home, Connaught Place, Delhi.)

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@NedBertz

5 months

Eid mubarak to you all, friends, and to everyone everywhere. A day to celebrate community and pray for peace. Sharing a favourite Eid photo from outside the Jama Masjid in Old Delhi, circa 2015.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

2 months

The Indian Ocean World Centre at McGill University is organizing an online workshop for early career researchers in Indian Ocean World Studies. Submissions especially welcome from scholars based in institutions around the Indian Ocean world.

CFP: JIOWS – ECR Online Workshop on IOW Studies

Download a PDF copy of the CFP here.

indianoceanworldcentre.com

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

4 months

Am watching Laapataa Ladies now as I get back to my Hindi film watchlist on a Saturday evening. Very entertaining so far...amusing, clever, well shot and acted, and I honestly don't know what's going to happen! Would love to hear what folks think of the film.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

1 year

All of academic twitter today seems to be happy to announce some accomplishment or another. I'm honestly thrilled for everyone. I'm content to announce that I'm happy to be munching on moong daal and watching the India-West Indies cricket test match.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

6 months

Alert, provincial Delhi post: in winter I had curtains stitched. The Lajpat Nagar shop did a fab job, and the curtains are now hanging in my Honolulu home. I want to refer to my bedroom as Little Lajpat and sleeping off as going to Lajpat, but friends suggest this sounds tacky.😄

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

6 months

I finally put a coffee maker in my office, something I've been meaning to do my entire academic career. First reports: mood ebullient and productivity high. Hell, if I had done this earlier I might be a full professor who won the Pulitzer! That's probably the caffeine talking.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

15 days

I'm on sabbatical as the new semester dawns so will be attaching this pic to my out-of-office email reply to ensure an erosion of my already dim academic popularity.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

1 year

Please share and join in! Our symposium on climate change in South Asia is happening this week in Hawai'i as the subcontinent is gripped by a devastating heat wave. Keynotes and panels are streaming online, including @GhoshAmitav in person in the islands.

Climate Change and South Asia

Center for South Asian Studies Spring Symposium 2023

southasiasymposium2023.wordpress.com

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

1 year

Please share widely! The University of Hawai'i Center for South Asian Studies' annual symposium theme is climate change on the subcontinent. The April program is now out and mostly online so do join in! @GhoshAmitav will be in person and livestreamed.

Climate Change and South Asia

Center for South Asian Studies Spring Symposium 2023

southasiasymposium2023.wordpress.com

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

1 year

I carried away some (fictional) loot as a way to cope with leaving India this summer, hopefully it's sufficient to last until Dilli ki sardi. Let me know if you have thoughts on any of these titles, would love to share notes as I'm excited to read them all!

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

2 months

If I had to choose a last meal, it might be one like this: roasted goat and plantains with pilipili (hot sauce) and a cold Kilimanjaro lager, sitting outdoors under southern hemisphere stars on an evening with pleasant Indian Ocean breezes.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

10 months

I taught an article on Palestine's efforts to gain admission to the Olympics in my global sport history class today. I was proud of my students for their engagement and civility, and recognition of Palestinians' long struggle for dignity and humanity amid crushing oppression. 🇵🇸

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

8 months

Do you have a favourite airplane meal? Mine easily is the bibimbap with a cold beer on Korean Air.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

5 months

Waking up to a double rainbow over the Pacific never gets old. Aloha to you all, and duas for peace. 🌸

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

1 year

As a wise person once said, to love Delhi one must be able to leave Delhi. Pics from my first visit to Leh. Julley!

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@NedBertz

2 years

On the anniversary of mum's death my heart filled with joy when I discovered there is a small endowed scholarship in her name at the university where she studied and worked after raising two kids. It is for undergraduate women returning to college to study a health profession.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

9 months

Got my teaching evaluations. Is it shallow to most appreciate the ones that call me funny? Here's a line I haven't heard before, from a student in my course on the history of global sport: "he was funny and knowledgable, and had a mild cricket obsession." 🏏

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@NedBertz

5 months

Honolulu today was like an Indian hill station during the monsoon. The city sat under a Pacific squall and rainy clouds all day. I craved adrakwali chai and biskoots. Sigh...into week fifteen of the semester tomorrow!

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1 year

Think what you will about Barbie, but the movie missed an excellent tie-up opportunity with the Delhi Metro Pink Line. I’d have loved to see a scene of Barbie glaring at the men sitting in the ladies' seats and then trying to change trains at peak rush hour.

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@NedBertz

5 months

I confess, I have a crush...on Kerala. Can't wait for the next visit. Good article about how workers are flying home from the Gulf to vote: "I am keen to vote this time as this election will define the future of India. I want my country to remain secular."

Indian Gulf workers: The unlikely voters parties are wooing for elections

As the southern Indian state of Kerala votes on April 26, thousands are flying back from the Gulf to cast their ballot.

www.aljazeera.com

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

1 year

I’ve missed the sights and sounds of Dilli-6 (and most of the smells). Finally made it back this evening, a happy chakkar from bustling Chawri Bazaar to the peaceful Fatehpuri Masjid. The aloo tikki is as fantastic as ever, and I was amazed to see Chandni Chowk is now walkable!

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

5 months

I have published and teach about Bollywood, but admit I've lost the plot the last couple of years. It's my melodramatic resolution to remedy this and am starting tonight by watching '12th Fail.' Reviews of it and suggestions of other recent must watches are welcome!

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

8 months

Inspiring to see Africa standing up for Palestine, an old solidarity. Julius Nyerere in 1967: "The establishment of the state of Israel was an act of aggression against the Arab people." Worth revisiting this 2014 article on Tanzania-Palestine relations:

Tanzania and the Palestinian Struggle

Tanzanian foreign policy is now driven by “economic diplomacy;” as a result, its voice on Palestinian oppression has faded.

africasacountry.com

Namibian Presidency

@NamPresidency

8 months

Namibia rejects Germany’s Support of the Genocidal Intent of the Racist Israeli State against Innocent Civilians in Gaza On Namibian soil, #Germany committed the first genocide of the 20th century in 1904-1908, in which tens of thousands of innocent Namibians died in the most

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@NedBertz

10 months

A nice Diwali surprise to be quoted in an Indian Express article today about the history of Indians in Zanzibar.

Adrija Roychowdhury

@AdrijaRoychow

10 months

In the oped page today, my piece on Zanzibar that has been home to Indians for centuries and now and IIT

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@NedBertz

7 months

Pardon the rude pic, I'm just eager to show off my swish new mood socks while kicking up my feet at work on a Friday afternoon.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

2 months

This summer, after crossing the Pacific and Atlantic and glimpsing the North, Baltic, and Black Seas, am finally at my favorite body of water, the Indian Ocean. Will be spamming you all soon with more pics from the greatest city in the world!* [*According to pretty much only me.]

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@NedBertz

20 days

There’s something magical about equatorial sunsets.

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@NedBertz

27 days

Seaweed farming at low tide off the southeast coast of Zanzibar.

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@NedBertz

2 years

This is not just table tennis, but the ping pong of African liberation and revolution: Presidents Kwame Nkrumah of Ghana and Julius Nyerere of Tanzania at the Organisation of African Unity meetings in Accra, 1965.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

4 months

One of the saddest things about going away for a long stretch is leaving my beloved bicycle. But he has earned a sabbatical as well after a long spell of navigating reckless drivers, uneven pavement, and irregular bike lanes. We've only crashed twice in our decade together.🥹

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

6 months

Ramzan kareem, friends. 🌙 Prayers for Gaza and an immediate ceasefire. I last experienced Ramadhan in Dar es Salaam two years ago. Here is a moving azaan heard from my home during that month.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

4 months

Happy aloha Friday from Hawai'i, all! As grateful as I am that the semester is winding down, it's a wistful moment: my last weekend in these beautiful islands for some time.🌺

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

7 months

I love my job: this image was a point of conversation in class this morning - a Valentine's Day edition on histories of love in India. Music before class was Pehla Nasha (linking here since video is amazing), Tum Hi Ho, and Tere Bina. Other ideas welcome!

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

1 year

My students today debated the purpose of university in the age of AI (fair!). So in class I had them ask ChatGPT what’s the point of college. They realized the answer was bland and not generated from experience. And that’s the point of college – to experience and learn from life.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

10 months

Course enrollments are now a competitive sport, and money flows based on this equation. It's a sad model that pressures faculty and neglects what would be good for students. My department generates media to advertise our classes, so doing due diligence to share a spring class.

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

2 months

Move over, angry young man of 1970s Indian cinema: "The singleton, the dance-floor diva, the underworld moll, the unhappy housewife and the woman in a one-sided relationship moved...among mummy-obsessed heroes. These women equally defined the 1970s..."

Book excerpt: Meet the Angry Young Women of 1970s cinema

Some of the women were out of control in ways that have survived the formulaic storytelling.

scroll.in

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Ned Bertz

@NedBertz

2 months

It's been a blessed maritime summer. A few days after first gazing onto the Baltic while in Denmark, Istanbul offered me my first glimpses of the Bosphorus and the Black Sea.

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