In 1815, he predicted that there would be a mutiny within the next 50 years if the East India Company kept on alienating the "Natives" in their army. He faced court martial and was essentially removed from command for this. The Sepoy Mutiny broke out 42 years after this
(1/n)
I was abused as a child in the boarding school at Ramakrishna Mission Vidyapith- Purulia. Physical abuse on children was rampant, but the mental indoctrination was even more abusive.
What is the
#Bengali
connection to the
#BoerWars
in
#SouthAfrica
?
The answer is this quaint little house in a narrow alley in North
#Kolkata
. For his family, Brojokishore Thakurbari was established by Bamacharan Bhar (1851-1904) in the late 1800s. Poverty-stricken Bamacharan
I've said this again and I will say this over and over and over again. These 19th century warehouses on the banks of
#Hooghly
ARE STILL SALVAGEABLE! Why can't we restore and repurpose these beautiful redbrick structures into museums, cafes, offices & exhibition spaces & flats?
Many such small, historic "Eating Houses" in
#Kolkata
's old business districts are now shutting down permanently, after a century or more of feeding delicious, affordable, home style meals for office goers and laborers. This is a huge loss to
#Calcutta
's
#food
history.
#Covid19
In 1772, Warren Hastings was back in
#Calcutta
as the Governor of
#Bengal
. On his return, he was immediately on the lookout for a certain Kanto-babu (Krishnakanta Nandi). Kanto-babu was from a family of small silk merchants in
#Cossimbazar
, and factory consultations show that his
If you walk in the older neighbourhoods of
#Kolkata
, you will often see these taps. The earliest of these were installed in the 1870s by the Calcutta Corporation to supply purified water for the public, initially five times each day.
The first shipment of these arrived in
I am teaching a class later today on streets & bazaars of 18th-19thC
#Calcutta
. I am using this 1826 painting by Fraser of the
#Chitpore
Rd & bazaar. Take a closer look, and the sheer amount of diversity depicted here will hopefully blow your mind. Calcutta was that cosmopolitan.
Absolutely bowled over by this exquisitely painted basalt mihrab at Jami Masjid in
#Bijapur
. The mosque was commissioned by Ali I in 1574 but was never finished. Muhammad Adil Shah added this mihrab in 1636!
#heritagetrail
#karnataka
#backpacking
We saw these stones on a pavement in
#Kolkata
today. These stones have fascinating stories to tell. Can you Guess what they were used for before they were used in the pavement?
#Trivia
In 1833 a ship arrived in
#Calcutta
from
#Boston
with 100 tons of “crystal block of yankee coldness”. It was the first ever ice shipment from Tudor Ice Co. Growing import led to building of a Icehouse on Bankshall St. The only picture of this icehouse from Fiebig’s 1851 print. BL
#OnThisDay
- 26th March 1931, the capital of
#India
was officially moved from
#Calcutta
to
#NewDelhi
. While the declaration of this move was done 20 years earlier, it took time to design and build the new "Imperial" capital.
Here's a map from December 1911 showing how this new
(16/n) Okay before someone comes and starts gaslighting by saying “all monks aren’t bad”, I know that. I went to RKM Belur in 11th & 12th STD and monks there were really nice, compassionate and full of empathy. But saying all aren’t bad diminishes the problem which exists!
A beautiful quiet corner of the Sacred Heart Church in
#Chandannagar
.
The Catholic church was founded in 1688 by Augustinian friars a couple of years after Chandannagar became a French territory. The current grand French-style building dates from the late 1800s when the much
Remnants of the
#Partition
- The ruins of
#Bangladesh
's Lokma Rajbari tell you a story of how the Radcliffe Line had separated families and ruined fortunes. Lokma Rajbari in Bangladesh's
#Joypurhat
district, sits a few meters away from the border fence with
#India
.
According to
#Coronavirus
does NOT DISCRIMINATE on skin colour, nationality, race, class, caste or gender. Our stupidity that does.
@chelse_mcgill4
& I are extremely shocked at what happened this morning. The Media, state govt & police MUST ACT NOW to allay unfounded fear about
#COVID19
.
(11/n)
Finally, getting to the
#UK
taught me my self worth. That I was valuable. I met really kind people there, who were in my class, my landlords, my friends families and professors. UK was liberating and it healed me to a great extent. For which I will remain grateful.
Roxburgh House, the residence and workplace of William Roxburgh, second curator of
#Calcutta
's
#BotanicalGardens
& a groundbreaking researcher in modern
#botany
, lay in shambles, 5 years on after a conservation project supposed to have started. It needs urgent repurposing.
As
#COVID19
Third Wave looks imminent, its time to double down on precautions. But that does not mean you can explore, experience and learn safely.
Explore from the safety of home by renting
@immersivetrails
immersive
#VirtualExperiences
here:
A few months ago a fire broke out at this building near the Raj Bhavan in
#Kolkata
.
This was where once was one of the finest hotels in
#Asia
- The Spence's Hotel.
The Spence’s Hotel established in
#Calcutta
in 1830 was
#Asia
's first European style luxury hotel. In its water
Which deity is this, you ask? This is Kwan Yin, the
#Cantonese
goddess of mercy. But in
#Kolkata
's
#Chinatown
, the deities have taken in a distinctly
#Hindu
character draped with a crown, jewelry, garland and a beautiful saree. A brilliant example of cultural coexistence!
The Tower House is
#Kolkata
's first sky-scrapper. Built in the early 1930s the top floor served as the Voice of America broadcasting centre during
#WorldWarII
. During
#Bangladesh
Liberation War, the same offices were used by Bangladesh Betar.
I cannot stop fawning over this beautiful structure. The symmetry in
#architecture
and aesthetics of the
#Hooghly
#Imambara
is a treat to watch every time I visit. On quiet days I can spend hours here, and on the riverside next to it, reading or just contemplating.
#DurgaPuja
originally was an autumn harvest festival. Before it took its urban form and long before modern day theme pujas came by, the Goddess was worshipped in wooden “Mandaps” like this. This wooden Mandap in Sripur, built in 1706 is one of the only 3 surviving in
#Bengal
now.
In 1801, Lord Wellesley decided that the ships coming to
#Calcutta
would have to deposit gunpowder at the magazines in a place called Moyapur, near Budge Budge, 40km south of the city to protect the city from a siege & accidents. Ruins of the magazine can still be found there.
Brilliant morning exploring the 8th century Chalukya-Rashtrakuta temple complex of
#Pattadakal
! Awed by the sheer scale of construction and beautiful architecture at the time when temple architecture was vigorously experimented with in
#Deccan
!
(13/n)
I am coming out with my story today very publicly, because this story needs to be told, shared and because I want to protect the future generations from going through the same thing. I want parents to know before they decide to send them to schools like that.
One of the massive assets in terms of
#heritage
and
#tourism
are
#Bengal
's richly decorated late medieval
#terracotta
temples, some more exquisite and more innovative than the famous temples of
#Bishnupur
. Absolutely love them!
(12/n)
Now, I am sure that I am not the only one who suffered such childhood traumas from the same school. The system was deeply rotten, and pedagogy non-existent. But the cult like indoctrination makes you doubt yourself & makes you treat your abuser as close to GOD.
On 20 Aug 1828, Raja Rammohan Ray, Dwarkanath Tagore & a few others convened the first meeting of Brahmo Sabha in this building in
#Kolkata
's Jorasanko. By a Trust Deed of November 1830 the
#BrahmoSamaj
was officially formed here. The building now is disputed & extremely
#atrisk
.
One of the most iconic buildings in
#Calcutta
, the Esplanade Mansion is probably the only pure
#ArtNoveau
style building in the city. It was commissioned as plush apartments by
#Jewish
businessman Elias David Ezra and Built by Martin & Co in 1910.
How beautiful is that! Love this intricately carved terracotta panels in the Mihrab of Zafar Khan Ghazi’s
#mosque
in Bansberia. The mosque dates to the late 13thC, & oldest standing one in
#Bengal
. The original stone mihrabs were damaged & these terracotta ones were made in 17thC
I quite love this magnificent Imambara in
#Hooghly
commissioned with the donations left by philanthropist Haji Mohammad Mohsin in the early 19th century. Imagine traveling upriver from
#Calcutta
& seeing this building & Mohsin's grant deed etched on its walls close in on you.
(3/n)
When I finally did act, I was given the role of a hangman with just 1 word. I was also constantly shamed by the teachers and the monks for my dark-skinned. Treated as untouchable, called nasty names, because of my skin colour. Naturally, students bullied me the same way.
(2/n)
I was passionate about languages & acting, but was barred from both as I was bad at math! Monks told my parents that I wasn't good for anything if I wasn't good in the sciences. Finally dad, who was a photographer, had to take a lot of pics for free to get me into French.
I spent the morning reading a contemporary
#Bengali
source recording
#Maratha
invasion of
#Bengal
of 1742-44. Although they destroyed a number of Vaishnavite temples the capital of Vaishnavite kingdom
#Bishnupur
warded them off. The location of Bishnupur Court was Maratha camp.
If you know where to look, you will still find these beautiful wood and cast iron doors in
#Kolkata
. This one is from the a building originally built by the South British Insurance Company which insured ships & businesses trading with
#Australia
&
#NewZealand
in
#Victorian
period
This beautiful house tucked inside a narrow alley in N
#Calcutta
was estd by Bamacharan Bhar, a
#Bengali
#entrepreneur
. He learnt
#tailoring
western outfits, joined a cloth factory, later becoming owner, & also very rich by exporting uniforms for
#British
troops in the
#BoerWars
.
(8/n)
Those 7 years in the boarding school, the formative years of my life, completely broke me, made me very very low on self-esteem and confidence. I hated looking at myself in the mirror, and I was convinced that I am a trash.
(15/n)
Feel free to reach out to me, if you are suffering and need someone to talk to, to at least lighten your burden. Reach out to me on tathagata
@live
.co.uk. You deserve to be heard.
We randomly see small cannons like this one randomly on roadsides of north
#Kolkata
. These are from the time when the affluent families of
#Calcutta
had a practice of firing blanks to inaugurate family
#DurgaPuja
or other festivals or to announce important life-cycle events.
(14/n)
I also want to tell those of you who suffered the similar way, and are still suffering silently, that you do not need to suffer anymore, that you can speak out. People will tell you-you are crazy, that you are wrong. But you aren't. I will always be there to hear you out.
(9/n)
It just broke me. Broke me from within. I was convinced that there was something wrong with me. So were my parents, who were ardent Ramakrishna Mission followers. What a monk told them had to be true. Monks could never lie, and their own child could.
Bengal was a century back in time, and also a century ahead in time...thus wrote Mirza Ghalib about
#Calcutta
. He rented this house in North
#Kolkata
during a part of his stay at the Colonial capital.
Have you seen this house?
My dad was a professional photographer and happened to be in the same place where
#SatyajitRay
was filming Shakha Proshakha. He took this photograph, which was his prized possession all his life and remains a very valuable family heirloom.
Happy Birthday Satyajit Ray.
This is one of
#Calcutta
's iconic and
#historic
#sweet
shops. Located in the heart of North
#Kolkata
, the business was founded by confectioner father-in-law, son-in-law pair Girish Chandra Dey and Nakur Chandra Nandy in 1844. The business is going strong 179 years on.
#Darjeeling
, do you see what is happening in
#Shimla
? Be afraid, be very afraid. Over tourism and uncontrolled construction on the hills are a very dangerous thing
(10/n)
So the years after leaving school was an uphill struggle. Struggle to make friends, struggle to prove myself, which I did because of the kindness of some of my later friends and teachers. But it was a hell of a struggle to cope and escape the indoctrination of the RKM cult
Gillanders, Arbuthnot & Co. is probably the oldest surviving
#Scottish
Managing Agency in
#Calcutta
. It was formed as Ogilvy, Gillanders & Co in 1819, and took its current name in the 1860s. In their agency days they dabbled in tea, champagne, jute, cotton & machinery trade.
In the next month I’ll scan this wonderful
#familyhistory
document of my grandfather’s monthly account book from 1954 until his death in 1956. I’ll make it available online for free, as it can be a good reference to prices & monthly needs of a low income household in the 1950s.
5 years ago, an English professor in
#Archaeology
rudely refused me from representing
#India
in a global panel of ICOMOS saying there wasn't any proof of my efficiency. In 40 minutes' time I will now be on the same panel as him. BURN!
You can trace the history of the State Bank of India to this now shabby structure in Central
#Calcutta
. It was here, on Old Post Office St that Bank of Calcutta was born in 1805-06, as arguably first modern
#bank
in
#SouthAsia
. Later renamed Bank of Bengal it moved to the Strand.
(4/n)
When I was in 7th standard, there was this monk who was the warden of our hostel. He took pride in the fact that not many students under his wardenship had left without being hit by him. He has a series of "informers" among students who were asked to make a list.
Visiting a number of
#Chalukyan
temples in the last 10 days, I'm awed by the progressive shrinking of space as one moves from open & airy exteriors to the sanctum-sanctorum! An architectural feat to generate awe & obeisance. A feature Ancient Egyptians too used in the New Kingdom
#Kolkata
's Chitpore Road was home to the high and mighty of the city since the mid 17thC. Although much of its erstwhile glory is now gone, including the magnificent mansions that once flanked the street, some stunningly beautiful balconies like these still survive.
#Calcutta
(5/n)
Then, out of the blue, in the name of disciplining he would call the students asked them to queue up and then go on a hitting rampage with a well-oiled stick, without even explaining what you did to deserve it.
Our final morning in
#Bijapur
begins at Jod Gumbaz, the tombs of
#Sufi
saint Hazrat Sayed Shah Abdul Razzaq Qadri & his Murid Mohammad Qawas Khan. And in yet another brilliant example of reuse is the ASI regional office being housed inside what would’ve been the mosque.
This majestic, rather
#Disney
-like
#temple
complex is only a few kilometers north of
#Hooghly
#Imambara
. This is Hangsheswari Temple in
#Bansberia
. It was commissioned in 1799 by Raja Nrisinghadev Roy, a local landlord, inspired by a dream he had on his pilgrimage to
#Varanasi
.
St. John's Church in
#Kolkata
has these old palanquin garages & guard houses near the main gate, dating to at least early 19thC. These are still salvageable. Why not reuse these as ticket counters & gift shop for this popular tourist destination instead of letting them crumble?
Sweet tooth any one?
The Jolbhora Sandesh of
#Chandannagar
is an early 19thC creation by confectioner Surjya Modak, arguably to fool unsuspecting sons-in-law during Jamaishashti. The sweet has a hidden chamber containing sugar/ palm syrup which spills out if you're not careful.
#Kolkata
looks beautiful today, with midsummer rains lashing the city now and then. This photograph encapsulates it all. The nostalgia, the
#heritage
and the beautiful melancholy that you find in
#Pamuk
's writings in
#Istanbul
.
In 1772 Warren Hastings returned to
#Bengal
as a Governor & was immediately searched for Kanto-Babu who helped him escape after he was imprisoned by Siraj in
#Cossimbazar
in 1756. Later he founded the Raj family there after generous land grants from Hastings & built this mansion.
So
@chelsea_mcgill4
& I are out of the woods from
#COVID19
. We’re fortunate to have mild symptoms when many are not. We can also tell that the disease is unpredictable & can do weird things. Also we’re so grateful & thankful to all of you for the support you gave to us!
(7/n)
Because I had no interested in math & sciences, because I was told repeatedly that I wasn't good enough or smart enough and no effort was made to encourage me, I'd just given up. At every occasion I was reminded that I won't ever make it to "greatness".
This beautiful
#Brahmo
temple at
#Amragari
in
#Howrah
. Brahmo Samaj here was founded by a small group of reformers led by Bhai Fakirdas Roy in 1882.
They established a middle school & this temple despite stiff resistance from the villagers. The day of the inauguration met with
(6/n)
I remember that one day I had fever so could not go to the study hall in the evening. I had come back from the clinic and laid down. The monk came in hand started hitting me without asking why I wasn't in the study.
As an
#archaelogist
you instinctively look down while walking every now & then. Sometimes you find overlooked layers of history. While waiting for our uber next to
#Kolkata
's Fort William today, I saw this layer of pre-1850s brick remains of a wall/road under the modern road!
It took 2 years to recover ourselves from the pandemic-related downturn in travel. But
@immersivetrails
is slowly, but surely growing once again, with a 100% year-on-year growth. We have, therefore, finally decided to invest in a little Incubation Space for us near our house.
During World War II,
#Calcutta
was home to thousands of troops coming from all over the British Empire and the United States. Like us today, one of the places they loved visiting was
#Kumortuli
, in the days leading up to the
#DurgaPuja
, when it was abuzz with activity. Some of
These raised platforms in the houses of several old neighborhoods of
#Kolkata
were kernels of the local community. Known as "Rowaks" or "Roks" these are where friendships were forged, disagreements were created and resolved and the community hung together through thick and thin.
A 1790s painting of vibrant
#ChandniChowk
in
#Murshidabad
with Munny Begum's Masjid as centrepiece. The Mosque was built in 1767 by Mir Jafar's wife, replacing the grand audience hall of Murshid Quli Khan.m The gates you see in the painting still stands.
Source:
@britishlibrary
During World War II,
#Calcutta
was home to hundreds of Allied troops coming from all over the world. To keep them entertained, there several journals and newspapers were published containing news of war in South and Southeast Asia and the world, latest entertainment, films and
As it pours and thunders we take shelter under an old balcony near College Street. The back alleys of
#Kolkata
easily transports you back to the early 20th century, often with a dash of the tumultuous politics of 1960s & 70s in form of political graffiti!
#ExploreCalcutta
Delightful surprises abound along
#Kolkata
’s Chitpore Road. E.g. This small temple, was constructed in 1735CE by the family of Gobindaram Mitra, the infamous “Black Zamindar” or Deputy Collector of
#Calcutta
. The date makes it one of the oldest surviving structures in the area.
I hate graffiti in a
#historic
site. We found this distasteful scribble on the burial plaque of Mary & Elizabeth the first wife & daughter of Warren Hastings at
@ASIGoI
protected
#Cossimbazar
cemetery. The caretaker was nowhere to be seen, so we decided to clean it up ourselves!
What was the toughest challenge in your life so far?
Mine was hunger. Yes, you heard it right. I belong to a poor family, and after a lot of hard work, I could get a scholarship to do a PhD at a UK university. The grant was generous enough and would have been ideal to lead a
On the way we saw this abandoned early 19thC semaphore tower at Dilakash. These were used as a network of pre-telegraph message transmission system using flag signals in daylight & light signals at night between
#Chunar
&
#Calcutta
. Ruins of many sporadically survive in
#Bengal
.
On 10th November 1938,
#Netaji
Subhas Chandra Bose made it to the cover of the
#Time
Magazine for openly calling out the
#British
Raj for its misrule and oppression of
#India
.
Here’s the cover from the vault of the
@TIME
magazine on his 125th birth anniversary.
A
#Kolkata
refreshed by the monsoon rains! As monsoon grey and gloom gives way to bright blue autumnal skies, the city makes me fall in love with it all over again!